Marigold Boho Coaster

Last summer, I released my Marigold Market Bag as a three-part CAL, and when I was working up the mandala portion, I fell in love with the progress after certain rounds. So I thought I would share two different styles of coasters I made from working up to certain rounds of the original mandala portion. I used a few different weight yarns and hook sizes to achieve completely different looks, so I’m including directions for both versions here for you!

For the first style coaster, which I’ll refer to as the Peaks style, I used a 4mm / G hook. In my first version of this style, I used some Hobby Lobby’s ILT Cotton, a CYC 4 worsted weight yarn, from my stash (see the orange colored coaster below, top left). Next, I made it again using a similar weight yarn, Premier Home Cotton (see the aqua colored coaster below, top right). Using a 4mm / G hook, I worked the original mandala pattern up to Round 6, blocked it, and I had my first style with pretty peaks.

For the second style coaster, which I’ll refer to as the Petals style, I hit my stash again and found some Paton’s Grace, which is a CYC 3 Light Worsted cotton yarn (see below, bottom row). With a 3.75 mm / F hook, I worked the original mandala pattern up to Round 8, and I didn’t have to block it this time because now I had these pretty petals, giving me my second style!

As I made more of these with different yarns from my stash, I found that the original yarn in the market bag pattern, Bernat Softee Baby Cotton (CYC 3 Light Worsted), worked up with a 4 mm / G hook was a suitable alternative to using worsted weight yarn for the Peaks style (see below, bottom row). I also found that using Aunt Lydia’s Size 3 crochet thread with a 3.75 mm / F hook achieved a similarly delicate alternative to using Paton’s Grace (see below, top row). Can we just take one quick second to admire the rustic chic look achieved with these neutral colors? So pretty 🙂

Materials

Depending on which style you choose to make, your materials needed will very. Please see the chart below for hook and yarn suggestions. You will also need a tapestry needle and scissors, and a stitch marker if desired.

Stitches & Abbreviations (US Terms)

Magic Circle / Adjustable Ring
Chain (ch)
Chain Space (ch sp)
Skip (sk)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Single Crochet (sc)
Half Double Crochet (hdc)
Double Crochet (dc)
3 Double Crochet Cluster (3dcCl)

Finished Measurements

Finished Peaks Style (up to round 6): approximately 4.75″ / 12 cm dia
Finished Petals Style (up to round 8): approximately 4.625″ / 11.75 cm dia

Notes

This pattern is written in US Standard terms.
This coaster pattern is classified as Advanced Beginner.
Chain stitches at beginning of rounds do not count as a stitch unless otherwise noted.
This pattern is worked in joined rounds.
Slip stitches used to close rounds are NOT counted in the stitch count for that round.
Round 2 is worked using the chains from your cluster stitch as stitches themselves, so that the pattern can increase accordingly in the round.
Round 5 will end with a double crochet crochet into the beginning stitch of that round instead of finishing a space using all chains. This is so that the start of the next round begins in the center of that chain set.

*******NOTE: This pattern is simply an excerpt from the full Marigold Market Bag Pattern. You can purchase a printable version of the full Marigold Market Bag pattern, complete with photo tutorials, round by round pictures, and, available ONLY with your PDF purchase, a stitch chart! Find the pattern in both my Etsy and Ravelry shops.*******

Want the stitch chart? It’s ONLY available with purchase of the printable PDF version of the pattern in my Etsy and Ravelry stores

The coasters will be worked in joined rounds, unless otherwise noted. Begin with a magic circle / adjustable ring, or alternatively, you can ch 3 and sl st to the first ch to form a ring. Round 1 will be worked into the center of your ring.

R1: Ch 2, *3dcCl, ch 1 (counts as a stitch), repeat from * 5 more times, sl st to top of first 3dcCl to close. (6 3dcCl, 6 ch-1s)

R2: Ch 1, *2 hdc into cluster, 2 hdc into ch-1 sp, repeat from * 5 more times, sl st to first hdc of round to close. (24 hdc)

Pro Tip: When you see a number before a stitch, this means that you should work that many number of stitches into the indicated place. So in this case, you’ll work two half-double crochets into the top of each cluster, then two half-double crochets into each ch-1 space. This can also sometimes be referred to as an ‘increase.’

R3: Ch 1, * sc, ch 2, sk 1, repeat from * 11 more times, sl st to top of first sc of round to close. (12 sc, 12 ch-2 sp)

R4: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), * 4 dc into ch-2 sp, sk st, rep from * 10 more times, 3 dc into next ch-2 sp, sl st to top of ch-3 from beginning of the round to close. (48 dc)

Pro Tip: When you see a beginning number of chain stitches that are counted as a stitch, as they are here, the ch-3 is to be treated as a double crochet where the first two chains substitute for the post of your double crochet and the last chain substitutes for the top of your double crochet, and that is where you will slip stitch to close the round.

R5: Ch 1, * sc, sk 3, ch 4, repeat from * 10 more times, sc next, sk 3, ch 2, dc into the top of the first sc of this round to close. (12 sc, 12 ch-4 sp)

NOTE: The double crochet at the end of Round 5 is going to substitute for the last two chains of this last “ch-4 space” so that you will start the Round 6 in the center of the space.

R6: Ch 1, * sc in ch-4 sp, [2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc] in next, repeat from * 11 more times, sl st to top of first sc of round to close. (12 sc, 48 dc, 12 ch-2 sp)

Pro Tip: When you see a group of stitches enclosed in parentheses ( ) or brackets [ ] within the text of a row or round’s instructions like you see with the “[2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc]” here, you will work that entire sequence of stitches into the same stitch as indicated in the instructions — in this case the single crochet stitch from the previous round.

If you are working with worsted weight yarn, stop here, tie off and weave in your ends. If you like the petal look, you’re all set to go! Or if you want a peaked look, block your work, pulling each of your ch-2 spaces into a peak.

If you are working with DK weight yarn, continue on to Round 7.

R7: Ch 7 (counts as a dc + ch 4), dc into same, sc into ch-2 sp, *[dc, ch 4, dc] into sc from previous round, sc into ch-2 sp, repeat from * 10 more times, sl st to top of third chain from beginning of the round to close. (24 dc, 12 sc, 12 ch-4 sp)

R8: Ch 1, * sc, 5 sc into ch-4 sp, sc next, sl st next, repeat from * 11 more times, sl st to top of the first sc of the round to close. (84 sc, 12 sl sts)

NOTE: slip stitches to close rounds are NOT counted in your final stitch counts for the rounds.

Tie off and weave in your ends.

That’s it! Two awesome coasters, each with completely different looks, all from the same pattern! Now you just need to grab your favorite beverage and sit back and relax!

If you have any problems with the pattern, please comment below or contact me! Don’t forget to use #MarigoldBohoCoaster and #LaBelleVieForMe when sharing on social media so I can see your beautiful coasters!

Happy crocheting!

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