The Iris Table Runner

**Sponsored Post: Yarn for this design was provided by WeCrochetOfficial.**

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Hi there, friends!

I’m so excited to show you what I’ve been working on the last couple of months, my first pattern of 2021, the Iris Table Runner!

I had been thinking of making a pretty spring table runner for my dining room table, which is….long. Like, really long. I wanted something dainty, lacy, and something just really pretty! When a spot opened up for the Spring Style Blog Hop put on by RaeLynn of Itchin’ For Some Stitchin’ and Sarah of Ned and Mimi, it seemed like the perfect opportunity! Bonus: WeCrochet sponsored the whole event! I’d been eying some of their CotLin for a while and I knew it was what I wanted to work with for this table runner.

The Stitches

I started to flip through my crochet stitch dictionary (my mom gifted me with this one back when I first showed interest), I wanted something that looked and sounded Spring-y. So I was looking at alllll the flowery stitches. The one that caught my eye was the Iris Stitch. Made from double crochets and chains, it was a super easy and meditative stitch. But it wasn’t enough.

I wanted something lacy to break up the iris stitches, so I opted for a basic ch-5 mesh, which is also known as trellis in my stitch dictionary.

The Yarn

As I mentioned, I’d been eying KnitPicks CotLin line for a while, a blend of cotton and linen in a CYC 3 weight yarn. It was as wonderful to work with as I imagined, and the structure that those fibers lend to a project are perfect for the lacy open stitches of this runner.

Before we get to the pattern, how would you like to hear about a way you can get not only my new Iris Table Runner printable PDF pattern for free, but also 30 others?

Spring Style Blog Hop

As I mentioned, Sarah (Ned and Mimi) and RaeLynn (Itchin’ For Some Stitchin’) are hosting a month-long blog hop this month, #SpringBlogHopWeC. Every day this month, a different designer will be featured and you will have a chance to download a free PDF version of the featured pattern, that’s 31 FREE PDF patterns you have an opportunity to snag! Weeks 1 and 2 will be hosted by Itchin’ For Some Stitchin’ and Weeks 3 and 4 will be hosted by Ned and Mimi. Note: Eastern Standard Time (EST) will be used for this event.

In addition to the blog hop, and for those who don’t want to wait or check back daily, a bundle is being offered featuring all 31 patterns + BONUS content. Included in the bonus content are TWO more exclusive patterns plus exclusive shop coupon codes for Ned and Mimi’s and Itchin’ for Some Stitchin. Grab the bundle for US$12.99, over 90% off retail price of these patterns, until April 7th, 2021. See a preview of all the designs included and purchase here!

Okay then, on to the good stuff!!

Iris Table Runner Crochet Pattern

by Hooks, Books, & Wanderlust

Materials List

• 5 skeins of KnitPicks CotLin shown in Swan
• 5mm / H crochet hook
• Tapestry needle
• Scissors
• Stitch marker (recommended but optional)
• Blocking pins

Stitches & Abbreviations (US Terms)

• Chain (ch)
• Chain Space (ch sp)
• Skip (sk)
• Slip Stitch (sl st)
• Single Crochet (sc)
• Double Crochet (dc)
• Treble Crochet (tr)
• Iris Stitch – find the tutorial here
• Modified Iris Stitch – find the tutorial here

Finished Measurements

13.5″ wide x 78″ long (34.5 cm wide x 198 cm long)

Gauge

4″ / 10.2 cm square = 15 dc x 7 rows of dc
3 rows of Iris Stitch = 4 rows of Trellis = 2″

Notes

• This pattern is written in US Standard terms and is classified as Intermediate.
• This pattern is worked in two panels, working the second panel off of the first.
• Adjusting Width: the width of this pattern can be altered for size by adding or subtracting stitches in a multiple of 4 + 1 (+1 for foundation chain). But take note, you will want to make sure that you have an even number of iris stitches if you want to work a lattice knot fringe at the end.
• Adjusting Length: the length of this pattern can be altered for size by increasing or decreasing in sets of two trellis rows and/or sets of two iris stitch rows.
• Chain-1s at the beginning of rows starting with a single crochet DO NOT COUNT as a stitch.
• Chain-3s and chain-4s at the beginning of rows DO COUNT as a double and treble crochet, respectively and are marked accordingly.
• Blocking is required to open up the stitches prior to use.
• If you’d prefer a convenient, printable PDF version of this pattern, which includes all special stitch photo tutorials mentioned above (with links to video tutorials for each), as well as a helpful row tracker and a stitch chart for visual reference – available in the paid pattern only, visit my Etsy and Ravelry shops!

***An inexpensive, convenient printable version of this pattern is available for purchase in my Etsy and Ravelry stores, complete with full-color photo tutorials for all special stitches and linked to supplemental videos on my YouTube channel, as well as a helpful stitch chart and row tracker with stitch counts. The paid version also includes a consolidated version of the pattern, stripped down to just the row by row instructions and any pertinent notes. Thank you for your support!***

Pattern

To create this pattern, we will work from the center of the runner outward alternating trellis and iris sections to create the first half of the runner. The second panel will be worked off of the foundation chain row of the first to complete the other half. This is so that the detail of the iris stitch is running toward each end of the table. You will work in turned rows using turning chains, which count as a stitch only when noted. Stitch counts can be found in ( ) at the end of row instructions.

PART 1: PANEL 1

Note that we’ll work the second panel off the bottom of the first, so the first trellis section is shorter than the subsequent trellis sections in the panel.

It is recommended but not required to place a stitch marker in the 4th chain of the starting ch-7 in Trellis A rows, as you will be working into that stitch in the subsequent rows.

Ch 62.

R1 Trellis: Sc into the second chain from hook, *ch 5, sk 4, sc next* twelve times. (13 sc, 12 ch-5 sp)

PRO TIP: Instructions that appear between * should be worked repetitively across the row or round and are followed with the number of times you should be able to work those instructions.

R2 Trellis A: Ch 7 (counts as tr + ch-3), *sc in ch-5 sp, ch 5* eleven times, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 3, tr in last. (2 tr, 12 sc, 11 ch-5 sp, 2 ch-3 sp)

PRO TIP: You might find it helpful to place a stitch marker in the fourth chain in your beginning ch-7, as you will be working into this stitch in the next row.

NOTE: You will be working your chain-5 over the single crochet from the previous row, skipping it entirely to work your trellis rows. See picture below.

R3 Trellis B: Ch 1, sc, *ch 5, sc in ch-5 sp from previous row* eleven times, ch 5, sc in 4th chain of ch-7 from previous row. (13 sc, 12 ch-5 sp)

R4-R8 Trellis: Alternate repeating R2 and R3, ending with a R2. Stitch counts remain the same as noted in each of those rows.

Transition to iris stitch section.

R9 Modified Iris: ch1, sc, [dc, ch 1, dc] in the first sc from the previous row, sl st to the middle of the ch-5 sp, mod iris 10 times until the last sc of the previous row, [dc, ch 1, dc] in the last sc of the previous row, sc in 4th chain of ch-7 from previous row. (2 sc, 12 mod iris)

NOTE: Click here to see a tutorial for the Modified Iris Stitch.

R10 Iris: ch 3 (counts as a dc), *iris in the ch-1 sp from previous row* 12 times, dc in last. (2 dc, 12 iris)

NOTE: Click here to see a tutorial for the Iris Stitch.

NOTE: During iris stitch rows, you will only be working into the ch-1 spaces, with the exception of the very first and last stitches that form the side edges of the runner.

R11-18 Iris: Repeat R10. (2 dc, 12 iris)

NOTE: This is the first (partial) pattern repeat. We will work a total of 3 for this panel.

PRO TIP: The words “pattern repeat” can be confusing because we haven’t actually repeated the pattern just yet. Instead, think of it as a block of rows. You will repeat this block as many times as indicated, in this case 3 times, or 3 blocks.

Transition to trellis section.

R19 Trellis A: ch 7 (counts as a tr + ch-3), sk 2, *sc in ch-1 sp, ch 5, sk 4* 11 times, sc in ch-1 sp, ch 3, tr in top of the ch-3 from the previous row. (12 sc, 2 tr, 2 ch-3 sp, 11 ch-5 sp)

R20 Trellis B: Ch 1, sc, *ch 5, sc in ch-5 sp from previous row* eleven times, ch 5, sc in 4th chain of ch-7 from previous row. (13 sc, 12 ch-5 sp)

R21 Trellis A: Ch 7 (counts as a tr + ch-3), *sc in ch-5 sp, ch 5* 11 times, sc in ch-5 sp, ch 3, tr in last sc from the previous row. (12 sc, 2 tr, 2 ch-3 sp, 11 ch-5 sp)

R22-29 Trellis: Alternate repeating R20 and R21. Stitch counts remain the same as noted in each of those rows.

Transition to iris stitch section.

R30 Modified Iris: ch1, sc in the first stitch, [dc, ch 1, dc] in the first sc from the previous row, sl st to the middle of the ch-5 sp, mod iris 10 times until the last sc of the previous row, [dc, ch 1, dc] in the last sc of the previous row, sc in 4th chain of ch-7 from previous row. (2 sc, 12 mod iris)

R31 Iris: ch 3 (counts as a dc), *iris in the ch-1 sp from previous row* 12 times, dc in last. (2 dc, 12 iris)

R32-39 Iris: Repeat 31. (2 dc, 12 iris)

Transition to trellis section.

R40 Trellis A: ch 7 (counts as a tr + ch-3), sk 2, *sc in ch-1 sp, ch 5, sk 4* 11 times, sc in ch-1 sp, ch 3, tr in top of the ch-3 from the previous row. (12 sc, 2 tr, 2 ch-3 sp, 11 ch-5 sp)

R41 Trellis B: Ch 1, sc, *ch 5, sc in ch-5 sp from previous row* eleven times, ch 5, sc in 4th chain of ch-7 from previous row. (13 sc, 12 ch-5 sp)

R42 Trellis A: Ch 7 (counts as a tr + ch-3), *sc in ch-5 sp, ch 5* 11 times, sc in ch-5 sp, ch 3, tr in last sc from the previous row. (12 sc, 2 tr, 2 ch-3 sp, 11 ch-5 sp)

R43-50 Trellis: Alternate repeating R41 and R42. Stitch counts remain the same as noted in each of those rows.

Transition to iris stitch section.

R51 Modified Iris: ch1, sc, [dc, ch 1, dc] in the first sc from the previous row, sl st to the middle of the ch-5 sp, mod iris 10 times until the last sc of the previous row, [dc, ch 1, dc] in the last sc of the previous row, sc in 4th chain of ch-7 from previous row. (2 sc, 12 mod iris)

R52 Iris: ch 3 (counts as a dc), *iris in the ch-1 sp from previous row* 12 times, dc in last. (2 dc, 12 iris)

R53-60 Iris: Repeat R52. (2 dc, 12 iris)

Tie off and weave in ends.

PART 2: PANEL 2

We will begin working the second panel on the bottom of Panel 1. This panel will begin with the other half of the trellis section that remains to be completed from Panel 1. The foundation chains and the single crochet stitches worked into them from Panel 1 will act as a row of trellis that we will build upon.

Attach yarn to the bottom of the last single crochet from Panel 1 R1, right next to the slip knot.

R1 Trellis A: Ch 7 (counts as tr + ch-3), *sc in ch-4 sp, ch 5* eleven times, sc in ch-4 sp, ch 3, tr in last. (2 tr, 12 sc, 11 ch-5 sp, 2 ch-3 sp)

PRO TIP: You might find it helpful to place a stitch marker in the fourth chain in your beginning ch-7, as you will be working into this stitch in the next row.

NOTE: You will be working your chain-5s over the single crochets from the Panel 1, Row 1, skipping single crochets entirely to work your trellis rows. See following picture.

R2 Trellis B: Ch 1, sc, *ch 5, sc in ch-5 sp from previous row* eleven times, ch 5, sc in 4th chain of ch-7 from previous row. (13 sc, 12 ch-5 sp)

R3 Trellis A: Ch 7 (counts as tr + ch-3), *sc in ch-5 sp, ch 5* eleven times, sc in ch-4 sp, ch 3, tr in last. (2 tr, 12 sc, 11 ch-5 sp, 2 ch-3 sp)

NOTE: This completes the partial trellis section at the beginning of the previous panel.

Transition to iris stitch section.

R4 Modified Iris: ch1, sc in the first stitch, [dc, ch 1, dc] in the first sc from the previous row, sl st to the middle of the ch-5 sp, mod iris 10 times until the last sc of the previous row, [dc, ch 1, dc] in the last sc of the previous row, sc in 4th chain of ch-7 from previous row. (2 sc, 12 mod iris)

R5 Iris: ch 3 (counts as a dc), *iris in the ch-1 sp from previous row* twelve times, dc in last. (2 dc, 12 iris)

R6-13 Iris: Repeat R5. (2 dc, 12 iris)

Transition to trellis section.

R14 Trellis A: ch 7 (counts as a tr + ch-3), *sc in ch-1 sp, ch 5, sk 4* eleven times, sc in ch-1 sp, ch 3, tr in top of the ch-3 from the previous row. (12 sc, 2 tr, 2 ch-3 sp, 11 ch-5 sp)

R15 Trellis B: Ch 1, sc, *ch 5, sc in ch-5 sp from previous row* eleven times, ch 5, sc in 4th chain of ch-7 from previous row. (13 sc, 12 ch-5 sp)

R16 Trellis A: Ch 7 (counts as a tr + ch-3), *sc in ch-5 sp, ch 5* 11 times, sc in ch-5 sp, ch 3, tr in last sc from the previous row. (12 sc, 2 tr, 2 ch-3 sp, 11 ch-5 sp)

R17-24 Trellis: Alternate repeating R15 and R16. Stitch counts remain the same as noted in each of those rows.

Transition to iris stitch section.

R25 Modified Iris: ch1, sc in the first stitch, [dc, ch 1, dc] in the first sc from the previous row, sl st to the middle of the ch-5 sp, mod iris ten times until the last sc of the previous row, [dc, ch 1, dc] in the last sc of the previous row, sc in 4th chain of ch-7 from previous row. (2 sc, 12 mod iris)

R26 Iris: ch 3 (counts as a dc), iris in the ch-1 sp from previous row twelve times, dc in last. (2 dc, 12 iris)

R27-34 Iris: Repeat R26. (2 dc, 12 iris)

Transition to trellis section.

R35 Trellis A: ch 7 (counts as a tr + ch-3), *sc in ch-1 sp, ch 5, sk 4* eleven times, sc in ch-1 sp, ch 3, tr in top of the ch-3 from the previous row. (12 sc, 2 tr, 2 ch-3 sp, 11 ch-5 sp)

R36 Trellis B: Ch 1, sc, *ch 5, sc in ch-5 sp from previous row* eleven times, ch 5, sc in 4th chain of ch-7 from previous row. (13 sc, 12 ch-5 sp)

R37 Trellis A: Ch 7 (counts as a tr + ch-3), *sc in ch-5 sp, ch 5* eleven times, sc in ch-5 sp, ch 3, tr in last sc from the previous row. (12 sc, 2 tr, 2 ch-3 sp, 11 ch-5 sp)

R38-45 Trellis: Alternate repeating R36 and R37. Stitch counts remain the same as noted in each of those rows.

Transition to iris stitch section.

R46 Modified Iris: ch1, sc in the first stitch, [dc, ch 1, dc] in the first sc from the previous row, sl st to the middle of the ch-5 sp, mod iris ten times until the last sc of the previous row, [dc, ch 1, dc] in the last sc of the previous row, sc in 4th chain of ch-7 from previous row. (2 sc, 12 mod iris)

R47 Iris: ch 3 (counts as a dc), *iris in the ch-1 sp from previous row* twelve times, dc in last. (2 dc, 12 iris)

R48-55 Iris: Repeat R47. (2 dc, 12 iris)

Tie off and weave in ends.

PART 3: FINISHING

To give your runner a more polished look, I strongly recommend blocking it. Doing so will aid in opening up the stitches and letting the details really shine. You might also consider adding a lattice fringe to the ends of your runner. The lattice will mimic the trellis stitches of the pattern but give it a bit of a boho flair. The bottom junctures of the iris stitches are the perfect places to attach the fringe. I’ll go over these techniques below.

Blocking

Blocking is necessary for this pattern, as it will even out your edges and open up the stitches of your runner so beautifully and really show off the detail.

If you haven’t blocked anything before, it sounds scarier than it is, trust me! This video is a great resource for beginner blockers.
For this project I prefer wet blocking (as opposed to spray or steam blocking), in which you give your project a cold bath, gently squeeze the water out (don’t wring it or pull, as it will effect the shape), then roll it up into a towel to soak up as much more water as you, then lay it out on some foam blocking boards like these. If you don’t have foam boards, laying it on top of carpet or rug with a towel (or two depending on your runner length) under it. Gently stretch it into shape and pin it to hold the shape. When it is dry, you’re all set!

Fringe

You can add fringe to your runner for a little bit of a boho look to it. You can opt for a traditional fringe, OR use a lattice knot fringe to play off of the trellis sections of your runner. It begins the same way as a traditional fringe—by cutting several strands of yarn in equal lengths and then attaching them to your project.

To see a tutorial showing how to make traditional fringe, click here.

NOTE: The longer your drop length for the traditional fringe, the more rows of lattice knot fringe you will be able to make. My suggested lengths would be 6” (15.25 cm) drop length per row of lattice knot fringe you intend to make.

For this runner, we are going to be using the chain-1 space of the iris stitches to attach our fringe, giving us a total of 12 groups of fringes on each end (a total of 24 for both ends).

For my runner, I plan to work only one row of lattice knots, so I want to make sure I cut my fringe long enough to account for that, which means I want a 6” (15.25 cm) drop length (length from where the fringe is attached to the ends of the fringe). You will need to cut your individual strands for your fringe at two times the drop length, this means that I will cut my strands at 12” (30.5 cm) long.

I used 6 strands of yarn at 12” / 30.5 cm long for each of the 12 fringes on the first end for a total of 72 strands. For the total strands needed for both sides, just multiply that by 2, so 72×2=144 strands. If you want your fringe to be thicker/thinner, add/subtract strands accordingly.

Attach the fringe to the chain-1 space of every iris stitch on one end of your runner.

If you would prefer a traditional fringe, stop here and trim the ends. Or if you want to give lattice knot fringe a shot, you can check out my photo and video tutorial for that here.

When you are satisfied with your lattice knot fringe, trim the ends of your fringe evenly across.

PRO TIP: If you have one, I recommend using a rotary cutter to trim the ends of your fringe. It’s a lot faster and easier than trimming with scissors by hand.

I hope you enjoyed this pattern and found it easy to follow!  If not, or if you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask!  Email me at HooksBooksAndWanderlust@gmail.com

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I would LOVE to see your make!  Should you choose to share, use the tag(s) #IrisTableRunner and /or #LaBelleVieForMe to share your makes with me @HooksBooksWanderlust on Instagram and/or Facebook!

Happy gifting!

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