
Spiked Boxes Crochet Stitch Tutorial + Coaster Pattern
**Please note that this post contains affiliate links, meaning I may make a small commission if you purchase through the links within this post at no additional cost to you. Please see my Full Disclosures + Privacy Policy for more details.**
Hi there!
I recently came upon this fun new stitch and I wanted to share it with you! Because I’m showing it to you in rows, I figured we could do a quick coaster pattern with it as well! Let’s dive in!
This stitch pattern is a 2 stitch repeat worked over a multiple of 2 stitches +3 for the foundation chain.
It is really only a 1-row repeat, but it does require a bit of a foundation before you can just start repeating the same row over and over. There’s also a little trick you’ll need to know before tying off to keep things square. Ready to get started?
For the coaster pattern, I’m using some scrap CYC 4 worsted weight yarn (Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice in Dusty Cedar) and a 6.5mm crochet hook.
*****Update! 1/28/22*****
This tutorial and coaster pattern are part of the Brookside Collection of patterns, which I’m happy to say has launched today! If you would like to shop the whole collection, click the image below!
As part of the launch of the Brookside Collection, a printable PDF version of this pattern / tutorial is now available in my Ravelry shop! It comes with additional photo support, in-document stitch tutorials (and linked video tutorials) for the half-double crochet decrease and the spiked double crochet, as it pertains to this stitch pattern. PLUS, it comes with a helpful stitch chart!
Click below to purchase. Thank you for your support!
No Ravelry account? No worries! You don’t need one!
Why the PDF?
What’s so cool about my PDF? Everything!
My interactive PDFs are written with teaching in mind, complete with photo tutorials for all special stitches (including links to videos), tips and tricks for the pattern itself or reading patterns in general, lots of photos, and charts for those visual learners out there! And best of all, everything is formatted for ease of navigation, allowing you to jump between sections of the pattern with ease!
Not a beginner? I also have a consolidated version (where applicable) of the pattern that’s printer-friendly just for you!
Get your printable PDF version of this pattern below!

Photo Tutorial + Pattern
Materials + Tools
- 17 yards of CYC 4 worsted weight yarn, shown in Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice in Dusty Cedar – makes one coaster
- 6.5mm / K crochet hook
- Stitch marker (optional)
- Scissors
- Yarn needle
Stitches + Abbreviations
- Chain (ch)
- Stitch (st) / Stitches (sts)
- Double Crochet
- Half Double Crochet Decrease (hdc2tog) – See my tutorial available here!
- Double Crochet (dc)
- Spike Stitch – a stitch worked into a location lower than the top V of the stitches of the previous row; for this tutorial/pattern, the spike stitch will be worked into a gap located between indicated stitches of the previous row.
Finished Coaster Size
4.75″ W x 4.5″ H (12 cm W x 11.5 cm)
Notes
- This pattern is written in US Terms and set for Advanced Beginner skill level.
- Adjusting for size or tension: Your foundation chain must be a multiple of 2 + 3 chains
- This pattern is worked flat in turned rows.
- Chain-3s at the beginning of rows DO COUNT as a double crochet
- Stitch counts appear at the end of each row in ( )s
Pattern
Foundation: Chain 15
PRO TIP: You may find it beneficial to use a larger hook size for the foundation chain, as typically chain stitches are tighter than standard stitches and could pull the bottom of your coaster tighter than the rest of it. I used a size L 8mm hook for my foundation chain. Just make sure to switch to the K 6.5mm hook when you’re ready to start your row.
Row 1: Skip 3 chains (counts as the first dc of the row), hdc2tog over the 4th and 5th chain from hook, dc into the same chain you just worked into (5th chain). *Hdc2tog over the next 2 stitches, dc into the same chain as the last leg of the decrease you just worked. Repeat from * across until two chains remain. Hdc2tog over the last two chains to end the row. (12)
PRO TIP: Asterisks (*) indicate the series of stitches to be repeated successively across the row.
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), hdc2tog the first two stitches, starting with the stitch at the base of the ch-3. Dc into the gap between the hdc decrease and the dc from the previous row. This is a dc spike stitch.
PRO TIP: I recommend leaving the 3rd chain in your beginning ch-3 slightly loose, as you will be working into this stitch at the end of the following row. You may even consider placing a stitch marker here so that you don’t miss it.
Note how it slants due to the gap being slightly behind the stitch. This will give us that faux-herringbone look when we are finished. If that gap is a little hard to spot, use your fingers to feel it out.
*Hdc2tog over the next two stitches, dc spike stitch into the gap between the decrease and dc from the previous row. Repeat from * across until two stitches remain, a decrease and the ch-3 that began the previous row. Work a hdc2tog over those last two stitches to end the row. (12)
Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), hdc2tog over the first 2 stitches, starting with the stitch at the base of the ch-3, then dc spike stitch into the gap between the decrease and the dc from the previous row.
Note, this gap should be a bit more easily-identifiable due to the additional room created by the dc spike stitches of the previous row.
*Hdc2tog across the next 2 stitches, dc spike stitch into the gap between the decrease and dc spike stitch from the previous row. Repeat from * across until 2 stitches remain, the decrease and ch-3 from the beginning of the previous row. Hdc2tog over those two stitches to end the row. (12)
Note, in the picture of the completed Row 3 below, I chained one after the final decrease. This is simply to lock the decrease in place long enough so I could take the picture. Do not count that chain in the stitch count for this row.
Row 4-7: Repeat Row 3. Do not tie off, we need to square out the final row.
Tying off our final row after that last decrease would give a rounded corner look to that one corner of the coaster. I prefer to square off the corner by adding one final stitch at the end of the final row.
Row 7 Finish: Work a double crochet into the top of the ch-3 from Row 6, in the same place we just worked the second part of our last hdc decrease. Tie off and weave in ends!

Voila! You did it! Whip up a set for a gift or to keep for yourself! Then snap a picture and share it with me @HooksBooksWanderlust on Instagram and Facebook!
Video Tutorial
If you want to see this stitch in action, I’ve recorded a video tutorial for you as well!
I hope you enjoyed this tutorial! If there’s a stitch you’d like to see me make a tutorial for, let me know in the comments below!
Until next time!


Want to stay up to date on all the latest tutorials, patterns, travels, and book reviews? How about exclusive offers and content delivered right to your inbox? Be sure to sign up for my email list and I’ll send you monthly recaps about what has been happening on the blog, as well as information I think you might find interesting! I try not to be spammy and you can unsubscribe at any time. Oh, and did I mention the exclusive content? I want to send you my handy Blanket Sizes sheet as a thank you for signing up! Find more info here, or click the button below to sign up now!

