Crochet,  Crochet Patterns

Brookside Beanie

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Hi there!

If you saw my stitch tutorial for the Spike Boxes stitch, then I hope you have been practicing! Today marks the launch of my Brookside Collection of patterns!

About the Brookside Collection

As a mom of two boys, finding patterns that are unique and interesting for boys/men has been a bit of a challenge. There simply aren’t that many options out there. When I learned the spiked boxes crochet stitch, I worked it in rows and noticed how it made a sort of herringbone pattern with the stitches that I was absolutely in love with! Plus, it works for both men and women alike!

You haven’t heard of the spiked boxes stitch? I hadn’t either, so I made up a full photo + video tutorial for you HERE! The tutorial also acts as the gauge swatch for the collection, including the beanie that follows, so I HIGHLY recommend popping over there to practice the stitch pattern, as it will ensure a proper fit and help you practice the trickiest part of this pattern: the stitch placement.

The Brookside Collection is comprised of 4 patterns: the Brookside Coaster (free here on the blog), the Brookside Beanie (Adult Medium size is free below), the Brookside Scarf, and the Brookside Cowl. In each of the premium PDF patterns, I break the stitch pattern down to its individual stitches: the half-double crochet decrease and the spiked double crochet — with full photo and video tutorials for those individual stitches. The coaster pattern/gauge swatch is also included, as well as the link to its video tutorial. All of this is in one place, with links taking you to those outside videos. 

Shop the whole collection on Ravelry below! To celebrate the launch of this collection, the patterns are marked 15% off, no code is needed! But hurry, this deal expires Monday, January 31, 2022 at 8am CST. You don’t have to have a Ravelry account to purchase, but I highly recommend one because Ravelry is an amazing tool and resource for us fiber enthusiasts!

Brookside Beanie

Before we jump into the free version of this pattern, let me just remind you that this is just one of the five sizes you’ll find in the premium PDF. If you haven’t used one of my premium PDFs before, let me tell you what you’re missing. The Brookside Beanie premium PDF comes graded for 5 sizes: Child (3-5 yrs), Child (6-10 yrs), Adult Small, Adult Medium, and Adult Large. You’ll also find additional supplemental photos not found below, a helpful stitch chart, and a convenient row tracker.

Why the PDF?

What’s so cool about my PDF? Everything!

My interactive PDFs are written with teaching in mind, complete with photo tutorials for all special stitches (including links to videos), tips and tricks for the pattern itself or reading patterns in general, lots of photos, and charts for those visual learners out there! And best of all, everything is formatted for ease of navigation, allowing you to jump between sections of the pattern with ease!

Not a beginner? I also have a consolidated version (where applicable) of the pattern that’s printer-friendly just for you!

Get your printable PDF version of this pattern below!


Materials + Tools

  • 154 yards (141 m) of CYC 4 worsted weight yarn, shown in LB Vanna’s Choice in Shadow
  • 6.5mm / K crochet hook
  • Stitch marker (optional)
  • Scissors
  • Yarn needle

Stitches + Abbreviations

  • Chain (ch)
  • Stitch (st) / Stitches (sts)
  • Single Crochet (sc)
  • Double Crochet (dc)
  • Half Double Crochet Decrease (hdc2tog) – Tutorial available here
  • Front Post Doublt Crochet (FPdc) – Tutorial available here
  • Back Post Doublt Crochet (BPdc) – Tutorial available here
  • Spiked Double Crochet (SPdc) – Tutorial available here

Finished Size

Adult Medium (fits head circumference of 23″)
Rectangle size prior to seaming: 21″ x 8″ (53.5 cm x 20.5 cm)


4″ (10cm) = 10 sts x 6.5 rows
Pattern for gauge can be found here

PRO TIP: Gauge matters! This is how you make sure the hat will fit correctly! Plus it’s a great way to practice the stitch pattern!


  • This pattern is written in US Terms and set for Advanced Beginner skill level.
  • Size/Tension Adjustments: increase/decrease hook size or to adjust
    • Hat Circumference: add/remove rows. The hat circumference is equal to the length of the rectangle prior to seaming. Please note that there is some stretch to this pattern and subsequently some negative ease (meaning the rectangle length is less than the actual head circumference it will fit), but you will need to work until your rectangle meets the size given in the Finished Size above.
    • Hat Height: increase/decrease foundation chains for a total that is a multiple of 2+3.
    • Note that any adjustments made will alter the yardage required.
  • This pattern is worked flat in turned rows.
  • Chain-3s at the beginning of rows COUNT as a double crochet
  • Stitch counts remain the same throughout, 20 stitches
  • You can find a premium PDF of this pattern that includes additional supplemental photos, stitch chart, row tracker and 5 sizes in my Ravelry and Etsy shops. See above for more details.


The body of this beanie is worked flat in turned rows, creating a rectangle that will be seamed up the side and cinched together at the top to create the beanie. The brim will be worked in the round using post stitches for a ribbing. I STRONGLY recommend a gauge swatch to ensure fit and allow you to practice the stitch pattern.

Foundation: Chain 23.

NOTE: The foundation chain establishes the height of your beanie and must be worked in a multiple of 2 + 3, should you choose to alter the height.

PRO TIP: You may find it beneficial to use a larger hook size for the foundation chain, as typically chain stitches are tighter than standard stitches and could pull the bottom of your work tighter than the rest of it. I used a size L 8mm hook for my foundation chain. Just make sure to switch to the K 6.5mm hook when you’re ready to start your row.

R1: Skip 3 ch (counts as the first dc of the row), hdc2tog over the 4th and 5th ch from hook, dc into the same ch you just worked into (5th ch). *Hdc2tog over the next 2 ch sts, dc into the same ch as the last leg of the dec you just worked. Repeat from * across until 2 ch sts remain. Hdc2tog over the last 2 ch sts to end the row.

PRO TIP: Asterisks (*) within lines of instructions indicate a series of stitches to repeat in succession as you work the row.
PRO TIP: Counting stitches is important for this stitch pattern because a missed stitch can throw off the subsequent row’s stitches. Don’t forget to include the ch-3 in your count!

R2: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), turn, hdc2tog the 1st 2 sts, starting with the dec from the previous row found at the base of the ch-3. SPdc into the gap between the dec and the dc from the previous row.

PRO TIP: I recommend leaving the 3rd chain in your beginning ch-3 slightly loose, as you will be working into this stitch at the end of the following row. You may even consider placing a stitch marker here so that you don’t miss it.

NOTE: Stitch placement is key in this row. Watch for correct placement for the SPdc (2nd picture below) and the 2nd and subsequent hdc2tog (3rd picture). Mistakes can alter your stitch count. You may find it beneficial to refer to this part of the gauge video for help with placement.

NOTE: See how it slants due to the gap being slightly behind the stitch. This will give us that faux-herringbone look when we are finished. If that gap is a little hard to spot, use your fingers to feel it out.

*Hdc2tog over the next 2 sts, SPdc into the gap between the dec and dc from the previous row. Repeat from * across until 2 sts remain, a dec and the ch-3 that was skipped to create the first dc of the previous row. Work a hdc2tog over the dec and the top of the ch-3 to end the row.

R3: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), turn, hdc2tog over the first 2 sts, starting with the dec from the previous row found at the base of the ch-3, then SPdc into the gap between the dec and the SPdc from the previous row.

NOTE: This row is basically a repeat of R2, except instead of a gap created by a dec and a dc, it’s a gap created by a dec and a SPdc. This gap should be a bit more easily-identifiable due to the additional room created by the SPdc of the previous row.

*Hdc2tog across the next 2 sts, SPdc into the gap between the dec and SPdc from the previous row. Repeat from * across until 2 sts remain, the decrease and ch-3 from the beginning of the previous row. Hdc2tog over those 2 sts to end the row.

R4-33: Repeat Row 3.

NOTE: Double-check that the size of your rectangle measures 21″ x 8″ (53.5 cm x 20.5 cm).

PRO TIP: I recommend measuring your work periodically as you go to ensure that your tension remains consistent and that the width of your rows matches the Rectangle Height from the table below.

Do not tie off, proceed to Seaming.


It’s time to turn your rectangle into a hat! If you’ve never done this before, I have a video tutorial you might find helpful that shows you how to seam and cinch, the most basic way to make a hat from a rectangle. Find that here!

Fold your rectangle in half, inside out, short sides together. Slip stitch the ends together to form a tube. Turn the hat right side out (so that the seam is on the inside). Tie off leaving a 20” (51cm) tail, weave in the short tail from your foundation chain, then turn the hat right side out (so that the seam is on the inside) and proceed to Cinching.

NOTE: Feeling adventurous? You might like to try the Mattress Stitch; photo + video tutorial found here.


Thread your yarn tail onto a blunt-tipped yarn needle. Starting at the inside seam of the top of your hat, weave in and out of the sides of the rows, tugging gently as you go to cinch up the top of your hat. If you’d like to see this part in my seam and cinch video tutorial, click here.

Secure the cinch by weaving around once or twice more, then thread the needle through the eye of the cinch, down into the inside of your hat, then weave your ends in on the inside of your hat.


Turn your hat right side out, so that the seam is on the inside. Attach the yarn at the seam. The brim will be worked in joined rounds.

BR1: Ch 1, sc evenly around the edge of your hat, working 2 per row of the body. Make sure you end with an even number of sts. Sl st to the top of the first sc of the round to join.

PRO TIP: Save yourself a little time later and work this round over 1/3rd of the yarn tail. Leave the rest to weave in the opposite direction then back again later for a secure tail.

BR2: Ch2, *FPdc, BPdc, repeat from * around, sl st to the top of the 1st FPdc of the round to join.

NOTE: This round is worked around the posts of the previous round’s single crochets. If you find this a bit difficult, you could work regular double crochets for this round.

BR3: Repeat BR2.

NOTE: If you would like a taller brim, feel free to add repeats!

Tie off and weave in ends!

You did it! This stitch pattern is so meditative once you get into it, right? The perfect thing to whip up while binging your favorite show!

I would LOVE to see your makes! Be sure to use the tag #BrooksideCollection, #BrooksideBeanie, and / or #LaBelleVieForMe to share with me @HooksBooksWanderlust on Instagram and / or Facebook!

I hope you enjoyed this pattern! If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask! Comment below or email me at

Until next time!

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