Alora Wrap

**Sponsored Post: Yarn for this design was provided by WeCrochet.**

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Hi there, friends!

Winter may still have its grip on us, but I’m looking forward to spring when everything is in bloom and the world is coming back to life after a long winter’s nap. Of course, one of my favorite ways to ring in a new season is with a new pattern!

The Alora wrap is a beautiful, romantic, feminine wrap perfect for date night, a day out with the girls, or just to dress up an outfit. With alternating sections of lace and solid stitching and a length to wrap around you, it will keep you warm in a spring breeze but is lightweight enough not to overheat.

The Stitches

Y’all know I love me some texture, but I also love a good meditative pattern that I can Netflix and chill with. This pattern uses basic stitches–single, double, half double, and chains (US Terms)–in fun ways to create an eye-catching wrap that looks way harder than it is!

The Yarn

As I mentioned above, WeCrochet sponsored this event and was kind enough to send me some of their Hawthorne Speckle Hand Painted fingering weight yarn to try out. I just love the cheery pops of color on all of these colorways! I chose Cobbler for my wrap, but there are so many beautiful colorways to choose from, I’m pretty sure I stared at the choices longer than it took me to work up the wrap! Ha! Anyway, this wool/nylon blend yarn is the perfect thing for those breezy spring days!

Before we get to the pattern, how would you like to hear about a way you can get not only THIS printable PDF pattern for free but many more too?!

Spring Style 2022 Blog Hop

You may remember the amazing Spring Style Blog Hop I participated in last year, creating the beautiful Iris Table Runner pattern for the event. If you remember the event and you remember how many amazing designs there were, then I have great news! The event is back this year and better than ever! And as part of the WeCrochet-sponsored event hosted by RaeLynn of Itchin’ for some Stitchin’, Sarah of Ned and Mimi, and Hannah of HanJan Crochet, you can grab a PDF copy of the Alora Wrap for free!

The Spring Style 2022 Blog hop is a 33-day event running from March 1 – April 2, 2022. Each day, a different designer will be featured and provide a premium PDF pattern for free for 24 hours. If you’ve been following along the whole time, that’s 33 FREE PDF patterns you can snag!

There are three hostesses for this blog hop, so you’ll want to make sure that you’ve got the correct host page for the date you’re looking for. NOTE: Eastern Standard Time (EST) will be used for this event.

Pattern Bundle

Giveaway

Okay then, on to the good stuff!!

Alora Wrap Crochet Pattern

by Hooks, Books, & Wanderlust

The PDF features the full written pattern, which contains full-color supplemental photos, helpful crochet tips and tricks, and a supplemental video showing how to work this pattern. The PDF also includes step-by-step photo tutorials and linked video tutorials for all special stitches, a consolidated pattern stripped down to just row instructions for more experienced crocheters, and a handy stitch chart.

Materials List

• 750 yards (686 m) WeCrochet Hawthorne Speckle Hand Painted yarn, shown here in Cobbler, or approximately 750 yards of a CYC 1 fingering weight yarn.
  • full disclosure, I worked this wrap as written with just under two full hanks, but based on the label information it came out as slightly more yardage than I should have had in those two hanks. The number I’m giving is based on the label information.
• 4mm / G crochet hook
• 5mm / H crochet hook if you plan to use a foundation chain instead of foundation double crochet
• Tapestry needle
• Scissors
• Stitch Marker (optional but recommended)

Stitches & Abbreviations (US Terms)

• Chain (ch)
• Single Crochet (sc)
• Double Crochet (dc)
• Half Double Crochet (hdc)
• Treble Crochet (tr)
• Double Crochet in 3rd Loop Only (dc3LO)
• Foundation Double Crochet (FSC) – find the tutorial here

Finished Measurements

Unblocked: 64.25″ L x 12″ H (163 cm L x 30.5 cm H)
Blocked: 79.5″ L x 15.75″ H (202 cm L x 40 cm H)

Gauge

4″ (10cm) square = 20 sts x 9 rows of double crochet

Notes

• This pattern is written in US Standard terms and is classified as Advanced Beginner.
• Tutorials: A photo tutorial for the Foundation Double Crochet with a supplemental video tutorial is linked above in the Stitches & Abbreviations section.
• Size/Tension: This pattern can be altered for size or tension by adding or subtracting foundation stitches for a total number of stitches that is a multiple of 4 + 1, or by adjusting hook size up/down accordingly
• Turning Chains: Some turning chains count and others do not. They are marked accordingly in the pattern.
• Premium PDF Pattern: If you’d prefer a convenient PDF version of this pattern, visit my Etsy and/or Ravelry shops! PDF includes:
  • Full Written Pattern with supplemental photos and helpful tips and tricks
  • Photo tutorials and linked video tutorials for special stitches
  • Linked supplemental pattern video pattern
  • Printer-Friendly Consolidated Pattern for more experienced crocheters
  • Stitch Chart

Pattern

This pattern is worked flat in turned rows to make a rectangle. Stitch counts are given at the end of row instructions in ( ).

PART 1: BODY

R1: FDC 301.  (301)

NOTE: To view my tutorial for the foundation double crochet (FDC), click here. Alternatively, chain 303 and double crochet into the back bump of the third chain from your hook and in each chain across. If you don’t know what the back bump is, check out my video here. However, chain stitches are much tighter than foundation stitches, so you may want to go up a hook size or two for your chain stitches if you choose this method so that it doesn’t pull your work.

PRO TIP: I recommend placing a stitch marker at intervals of 50 or 100 to help you keep count of how many stitches you’ve worked, so you don’t have to start all over again if you lose count.

R2: Ch 7 (counts as tr + ch-3), turn, sk 1, sc next, *ch 5, sk 3, sc next, repeat from * until 2 sts remain. Ch 3, sk 1, tr in last. (2 tr, 75 sc, 74 ch-5 sp, 2 ch-3 sp)

PRO TIP: I suggest leaving the 4th chain of your beginning ch-7 slightly looser because you’ll be working into it in the following row. You may even wish to place a stitch marker here for later.

PRO TIP: Because the ch-7 counts as a stitch, the stitch at the base of the ch-7 (the last stitch of the previous row) has now been worked into. So the instruction to “sk 1” indicates that you should skip the stitch immediately after that one.

PRO TIP: Instructions that appear after a * should be repeated in succession across the row until indicated to stop.

R3: Ch 1 (doesn’t count), turn, sc, *ch 5, sc in ch-5 sp from previous row, repeat from * until the ch-7 from the previous row. Ch 5, sc in 4th chain of ch-7 from previous row. (76 sc, 75 ch-5 sp)

NOTE: This is a great place to quickly count your stitches before continuing, wink wink.

PRO TIP: Because the beginning ch-1 doesn’t count as a stitch, the first sc is going to be worked into the stitch at the base of the ch-1, the last stitch from the previous row.

R4: Ch 7 (counts as tr + ch-3), turn, sc in ch-5 sp, *ch 5, sc next ch-5 sp, repeat from * across. After the last sc in the last ch-5 sp, ch 3, then tr in last sc from the previous row. (2 tr, 75 sc, 74 ch-5 sp, 2 ch-3 sp)

R5: Ch 1 (doesn’t count), turn, sc, *ch 3, sc in ch-5 sp from previous row, repeat from * until the ch-7 from the previous row. Ch 3, sc in 4th chain of ch-7 from previous row. (76 sc, 75 ch-3 sp)

NOTE: This row is the same concept as R3 except instead of a ch-5 between sc sts, it’s a ch-3. This will straighten out the top of our trellis section to begin the next dc section.

NOTE: This is another great place to quickly count your stitches before continuing.

R6: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), turn, *dc 3 into ch-3 sp from previous row, dc in next sc, repeat from * across. (301)

NOTE: Spread the 3 dc sts across the ch-3 sp evenly as you work, counting as you go. Make sure you didn’t work too few or too many dcs per ch-sp throwing off your stitch count.

R7: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), turn, dc into each stitch across. (301)

PRO TIP: Don’t forget, because that beginning ch-3 counts as a dc, you will begin working your next dc into the stitch after that at the base of the ch-3.

R8: Ch 1 (doesn’t count), turn, hdc into each stitch across. (301)

NOTE: This row establishes the front and back sides of the wrap. When you work the hdc stitches, the side facing you is the front or “right side” of your wrap.

R9: Ch 2 (doesn’t count), turn, dc3LO into each stitch across. (301)

NOTE: The 3rd loops of the first few hdc from the previous row are highlighted in the 1st picture below. You’ll notice a raised texture forming on the right side of the fabric as you work this row. See the 2nd picture below of R9 completed and turned.

NOTE: Don’t forget to count your stitches!

R10: Ch 4 (counts as a dc + ch 1), turn, *sk 1, dc next, ch-1, repeat from * until 1 st remains, dc in last. (151 dc, 150 ch-1 sp)

PRO TIP: Don’t forget, because that beginning ch-4 counts as a dc and ch 1, the stitch at the base of the ch-4 has been worked, so you will skip the stitch after that one, then work your dc into the one after that.

R11: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), turn, dc into each ch-1 space and dc from the previous row until only the ch-4 from the previous row remains. Dc in ch-4 space, then dc in 3rd chain of ch-4 from previous row. (301)

NOTE: Because the ch-4 from R10 counts as a dc + ch 1, that ch-1 counts as a ch-1 space to dc into. You’ll finish with a dc into the 3rd chain of the ch-4 as the last dc from R10.

R12: Ch 1 (doesn’t count), turn, hdc into each stitch across. (301)

R13: Ch 2 (doesn’t count), turn, dc3LO into each stitch across. (301)

NOTE: Don’t forget to count your stitches!

R14: Ch 1 (doesn’t count), turn, hdc into each stitch across. (301)

R15: Ch 2 (doesn’t count), turn, dc3LO into each stitch across. (301)

NOTE: Don’t forget to count your stitches!

R16-29: Repeat R2-15.

R30-34: Repeat R2-6.

Tie off, weave in ends! It’s time to block your wrap!

PART 2: BLOCKING

To give your wrap a more polished look, I strongly recommend blocking it. Doing so will even out your edges and open up the stitches, letting the details really shine. If you haven’t blocked anything before, it sounds scarier than it is, trust me! This video is a great resource for beginner blockers.

For this project I prefer wet blocking, in which you give your project a cold bath, gently squeeze the water out (don’t wring it or pull, as it will affect the shape), roll it up into a towel to soak up as much more water as you can, then lay it out on some foam blocking boards like these. If you don’t have foam boards, laying it on top of carpet or rug with a couple of towels under it.

Gently stretch it into shape and pin it to hold the shape. Be careful not to pin into the fibers of your yarn, just into the natural gaps and spaces. The goal is to only stretch it as far as your yarn will let you. Overstretching will give you peaks where your pins are and you want as much of a straight line as you can get. When you’re done pinning, allow it to dry. I let mine lay out overnight usually with fans on it to speed things along.

That wasn’t so hard, was it? I knew you could do it! Now you are ready for your next date night, GNO, or just to up-level your everyday look!

I would LOVE to see your wrap! Should you choose to share, use the tags #AloraWrap and / or #LaBelleVieForMe to share your makes with me @HooksBooksWanderlust on Instagram and / or Facebook!

I hope you enjoyed this pattern and found it easy to follow! If not, or if you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask! Email me at HooksBooksAndWanderlust@gmail.com.

Happy crocheting!

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