Cora Throw

**Sponsored Post: Yarn for this design was provided by WeCrochet.**

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Howdy, friends!

I am so excited!! Today is the day that I release my second ever full throw size blanket into the world! And, you can get a copy of the PDF for free! Keep reading!

The Cora Throw is a beautiful combination of stitches providing you with tons of texture and visual interest in a worsted weight yarn that is warm without being too warm! It’s the perfect thing to cozy up in with a good book and a cup of tea!

The Stitches

Y’all know I love me some texture, but I also love a good meditative pattern that I can Netflix and chill with. This pattern uses post stitches, puffs and third loop work to create all the desired texture in a pattern repeat that is easy to remember, ticking both those boxes!

The Yarn

As I mentioned above, WeCrochet sponsored this event and was kind enough to send me some of their Brava Worsted to try out. I chose the color Wine for my throw, but there are 50 colors to choose from and I just know you’ll find one or more that you’ll love! This worsted/medium weight yarn is 100% acrylic, making it extremely durable, washable, and warm!

Before we get to the pattern, how would you like to hear about a way you can get not only THIS printable PDF pattern for free but many more too?!

Winter Wonders 2022 Blog Hop

You may remember the amazing Winter Wonders Blog Hop I participated in last year, creating the quick and pretty Emberly Ear Warmer pattern for the event. If you remember the event and you remember how many amazing designs there were, then I have great news! The event is back this year and better than ever! And as part of the WeCrochet-sponsored event hosted by RaeLynn of Itchin’ for some Stitchin’, Sarah of Ned and Mimi, and Hannah of HanJan Crochet, you can grab a PDF copy of the Cora Throw for free today only, November 25, 2022!

The Winter Wonders Blog hop is a 33-day event running from November 1 – December 3, 2022. Each day, a different designer will be featured and provide a premium PDF pattern for free for 24 hours. Some days, there will be more than one pattern up for grabs! If you follow along the whole time, that’s 43 FREE PDF patterns you could snag!

NOTE: Eastern Standard Time (EST) will be used for this event.

Pattern Bundle

Giveaway

Okay then, on to the good stuff!!

Cora Throw Crochet Pattern

by Hooks, Books, & Wanderlust

The PDF features the full written pattern, which contains full-color supplemental photos, helpful crochet tips and tricks, and a supplemental video showing how to work this pattern. The PDF also includes step-by-step photo tutorials and linked video tutorials for all special stitches, a consolidated pattern stripped down to just row instructions for more experienced crocheters, handy stitch chart, color planner (in case you prefer to make in more than one color), and yarn and row trackers!

Materials List

• 3000 yds (2745 m) KnitPicks Brava Worsted yarn, 218 yds/100g per skein, shown here in Wine, or comparable CYC 4 worsted weight yarn
  • Each pattern repeat uses approximately 235 yds (215 m)
  • The border uses approximately 200 yds (183 m)
• 5mm / H crochet hook
• Tapestry needle
• Scissors

Stitches & Abbreviations (US Terms)

• Chain (ch)
• Turning Chain (tch)
• Stitch(es) (st(s))
• Skip (sk)
• Single Crochet (sc)
• Double Crochet (dc)
• Half Double Crochet (hdc)
• Third Loop Only (3LO)
• Yarn Over Slip Stitch (yoslst)
• Front Post Double Crochet (FPdc) – tutorial available here
• Back Post Double Crochet (BPdc) – tutorial available here
• Puff Stitch (puff) – tutorial available here – Note that this pattern works one extra yarn over and pulled up loop than in the linked tutorial, making the puff bigger.
• Right Side (RS)
• Wrong Side (WS)

Finished Measurements

50″ W x 60″ L (127 cm W x 153 cm L)

Gauge

4″ (10cm) square = 14 sts x 10 rows of pattern repeat R2-11

Pattern for Gauge: ch 25, follow pattern as written for R1-13. Swatch should measure approximately 7” W x 5.5” H (18 cm W x 14 cm H).

Notes

• This pattern is written in US Standard terms and is classified as Intermediate.
• Tutorials: Photo tutorials for special stitches with a supplemental video tutorial are linked above in the Stitches & Abbreviations section.
• Size/Tension: This pattern can be altered for size or tension by increasing/decreasing hook size accordingly or working a different number of starting stitches in multiple of 6 + 1 for the foundation chain. Make your blanket longer/shorter by adding/subtracting repeats of R2-13 accordingly.
• Turning Chains: Chain stitches at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch.
• Premium PDF Pattern: If you’d prefer a convenient PDF version of this pattern, visit my Etsy and/or Ravelry shops! PDF includes:
  • Full Written Pattern with supplemental photos and helpful tips and tricks
  • Photo tutorials and linked video tutorials for special stitches
  • Linked supplemental pattern video
  • Printer-Friendly Consolidated Pattern for more experienced crocheters
  • Stitch Chart
  • Row Tracker
  • Color Planner
  • Yarn Tracker

Pattern

This blanket will have a right side (RS) and wrong side (WS) to it. The right side will be facing you as you work even-numbered rows. I’ve notated this next to the row numbers as a reminder. Stitch counts are given at the end of row/round instructions in ( ).

PART 1: BODY

Foundation: Ch 169, or another multiple of 6 plus 1 for the turning chain.  (169)

PRO TIP: Chain stitches are tighter than regular stitches, so you may want to go up a millimeter hook size for your foundation chain so that they don’t pull your work.

PRO TIP: I recommend placing a stitch marker at intervals of 50 or 100 to help you keep count of how many stitches you’ve worked, so you don’t have to start all over again if you lose count.

R1 (WS): Sc in the second ch from hook and in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (168)

R2 (RS): Hdc into the st at the base of your tch and in each st across. Ch 2, turn. (168)

NOTE: This row begins the pattern repeat.

PRO TIP: Because the ch-1 at the beginning of the row doesn’t count as a stitch, the first hdc is going to be worked into the stitch at the base of the ch-1, the last stitch from the previous row.

PRO TIP: The words “pattern repeat” refer to the series of rows to be repeated over and over until completing the pattern.  The use of the word “repeat” here can be confusing since this is the first row of our pattern repeat and we haven’t actually repeated anything yet.  Think of the pattern repeat as a block of rows, blocks that you will build one top of another to construct your blanket.

R3 (WS): Dc 3LO into the st at the base of your tch and in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (168)

NOTE: The first picture below indicates the third loop of the next stitch to be worked.  The second picture shows the hook pulling up a loop for a double crochet from the third loop.

R4 (RS): Sc into the st at the base of your tch and in each st across. Ch 2, turn. (168)

R5 (WS): Dc 2, BPdc 2 (around the 3^rd and 4^th dc from R3), *dc, puff, sk 1, dc, BPdc around next 2 sts from R3 (count 4 sts from the last BPdc you made in R3 then BPdc around the next 2 sts), repeat from * across until 2 sts remain, dc 2. Ch 2, turn.  (27 puff, 56 BPdc, 58 dc)

NOTE: Click to jump to BPdc or puff stitch tutorials.

NOTE: To help locate the next BPdc location, I find it helpful to remember that there are 4 stitches between each pair of post stitches in R3.  Just skip 4 from the last post and BPdc the next! See first picture below.

NOTE: On repeats of this row, I recommend checking to make sure your post stitches in this row align with those of the previous repeat!

 

PRO TIP: When you see a number come after a stitch, as with the “dc 2” or “BPdc 2” above, that means you will work one dc or BPdc in each of the next 2 stitches.

PRO TIP: Instructions that appear after a * should be repeated in succession across the row until indicated to stop, then continue as directed.

R6 (RS): Dc 2, FPdc 2 around the BPdc from previous row, *dc 4 (into the dc, ch-1, puff, and dc from the previous row), FPdc 2 around the BPdc from previous row, repeat from * across until 2 sts remain, dc 2. Ch 2, turn.  (112 dc, 56 FPdc)

NOTE: To jump to the tutorial for the FPdc, click here.

R7 (WS): Dc 2, BPdc 2 (around each FPdc from previous row), *dc, puff, sk 1, dc, BPdc around next 2 FPdc from previous row, repeat from * across until 2 sts remain, dc 2. Ch 2, turn.  (28 puff, 56 BPdc, 58 dc)

R8 (RS): Dc 2, FPdc 2 around the BPdc from previous row, *dc 4 (into the dc, ch-1, puff, and dc from the previous row), FPdc 2 around the BPdc from previous row, repeat from * across until 2 sts remain, dc 2. Ch 2, turn.  (112 dc, 56 FPdc)

R9 (WS): Dc 2, BPdc 2 (around the two FPdc from previous row), *dc, puff, sk 1, dc, BPdc around next 2 FPdc from the previous row, repeat from * across until 2 sts remain, dc 2. Ch 2, turn.  (28 puff, 56 BPdc, 58 dc)

R10 (RS): Dc 2, FPdc 2 around the BPdc from previous row, *dc 4 (into the dc, ch-1, puff, and dc from the previous row), FPdc 2 around the BPdc from previous row, repeat from * across until 2 sts remain, dc 2. Ch 1, turn.  (112 dc, 56 FPdc)

R11 (WS): Sc into the st at the base of your tch and in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (168)

R12 (RS): Yoslst into the st at the base of your tch and in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (168)

NOTE: To jump to the tutorial for the yoslst, click here.

R13 (WS): Sc 3LO into the st at the base of your tch and in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (168)

That’s the first pattern repeat!  This is a great time to check gauge as you work through the pattern!  If you plan to change colors, this is a great time to do that as well!

R14 (RS) – 145 (WS): Repeat R2-13 11 more times for a total of 12 pattern repeats. (168)

R146 (RS): Sc into the st at the base of your tch and in each st across. Ch 1, rotate your blanket 90 degrees clockwise to begin working the border along the left side edge of your blanket. Proceed to the border.  (168)

PART 2: BORDER

You should have finished the body of the blanket with the right side facing you and rotated it 90 degrees clockwise to start the border.  The border will be worked in joined rounds with the RS always facing you.  We will work the first round evenly along the left-side edge first (R1S1), then the bottom (R2S2), followed by the right-side edge (R1S3), and finally across the top (R1S4).  Note that in the round abbreviations, R indicates which round of the border you’re working and S indicates which side of the blanket within that round, which is really only pertinent on the first round of the border.

R1S1: Work sc evenly along the sides of your rows in the following manner: 1 sc into each single crochet and half double crochet row, 2 sc into each double crochet row, and nothing into each yarn over slip stitch row.  When you reach the corner, ch 1 and continue to the next side.  (218 this side)

R1S2: Sc in each stitch across the bottom edge of your foundation chain.  When you reach the corner, ch 1 and continue to the next side.  (168 this side)

R1S3: Work sc evenly along the sides of your rows in the following manner: 1 sc into each single crochet and half double crochet row, 2 sc into each double crochet row, and nothing into each yarn over slip stitch row.  When you reach the corner, ch 1 and continue to the next side.  (218 this side)

R1S4: Sc in each stitch across the top edge of R146 from the body.  When you reach the corner, ch 1 and sl st to the first sc from R1S1 to join.  (168 this side, 772 total for R1)

R2: Ch 1, hdc 218, [hdc, ch 1, hdc] in the ch-1 space at the corner, hdc 168, [hdc, ch 1, hdc] in the ch-1 space at the corner, hdc 218, [hdc, ch 1, hdc] in the ch-1 space at the corner, hdc 168, [hdc, ch 1, hdc] in the ch-1 space at the corner, sl st to the first hdc of the round to join. (780)

PRO TIP: When you see a series of stitches inside parentheses or brackets, as with the “[hdc, ch 1, hdc],” that indicates that you should work that entire series of stitches into the indicated place, in this case, the corner ch-1 space.

PRO TIP: Be careful at corners in this round and those following. It’s easy to cover up the first stitch of a new side when you turn your corner with the stitches going into the ch-1 space.  Be sure you don’t miss them.

R3: Ch 1, hdc 3LO 220, [hdc, ch 1, hdc] in the ch-1 space at the corner, hdc 3LO 170, [hdc, ch 1, hdc] in the ch-1 space at the corner, hdc 3LO 220, [hdc, ch 1, hdc] in the ch-1 space at the corner, hdc 3LO 170, [hdc, ch 1, hdc] in the ch-1 space at the corner, sl st to the first hdc of the round to join. (788)

R4: Ch 1, sc 222, [sc, ch 1, sc] in the ch-1 space at the corner, sc 172, [sc, ch 1, sc] in the ch-1 space at the corner, sc 222, [sc, ch 1, sc] in the ch-1 space at the corner, sc 172, [sc, ch 1, sc] in the ch-1 space at the corner, sl st to the first sc of the round to join. (796)

Tie off, weave in ends!

You did it! Okay, be honest, how many times did you run your hands all over that gorgeous texture? You can tell me, I won’t judge because I did too! LOL!

I would LOVE to see your blanket! Should you choose to share, use the tags #CoraThrow and / or #LaBelleVieForMe to share your makes with me @HooksBooksWanderlust on Instagram and / or Facebook!

I hope you enjoyed this pattern and found it easy to follow! If not, or if you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask! Email me at HooksBooksAndWanderlust@gmail.com.

Happy crocheting!

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