Alpine Stitch Tutorial

Hello there!

Today, I want to share with you a texture-rich stitch called the alpine stitch! It is an intermediate stitch because it involves a post stitch and multi-row repeating pattern, and knowledge of basic stitches and working in turned rows or in the round is helpful, but once you get the hang of it, you’ll be cruising along in no time! The texture is totally worth the effort! Don’t worry, I’ve got you covered with photo and video support!

You will need to be familiar with the following stitches and abbreviations for this tutorial:

• Chain (ch)
• Slip Stitch (sl st)
• Single crochet (sc)
• Double crochet (dc)
• Front post double crochet (FPdc) – Find a tutorial here

The alpine stitch uses a 4-row/round repeat, with rows/rounds of repeating pairs of double and front post double crochet stitches separated by rows/rounds of single crochet. We’ll start with a set up row/round of double crochet, then start our 4-row/round repeat of sc, Alpine A, sc, and Alpine B rows/rounds. The only difference between Alpine A and B is whether we start with a double crochet or a front post double crochet for our repeating pairs, as it is this switch that gives us the nested look of the stitches. We’ll continue repeating in that order until we’ve reached the height we want for our piece, then work a final row/round of single crochet to finish it off.

In this post, I’m going to go over how to work the alpine stitch in both turned rows and in the round, as there is a slight difference between the two. So let’s do it!

Need to see the alpine stitch worked in real time? I’ve recorded a video tutorial showing both rows and rounds below the photo tutorials at the bottom of this post.

Alpine Stitch in Turned Rows

Technically, since the alpine rows are repeating pairs, the stitch multiple for this pattern is 2, but when you’re working in flat, turned rows, that can leave the ends looking a little uneven or strange. So I like to use an odd number of stitches + 2 for the foundation chain. This extra stitch allows me to always start and end with a double crochet for my alpine rows, which then ensures that the texture is all nice and centered within the side edges of my work. Our repeating pairs of the alpine rows will begin with the second stitch of that row with the first stitch of the repeating pair being a FPdc for Alpine A rows and the first stitch being a dc for the Alpine B rows.

For this tutorial swatch, I’m going to use a foundation chain of 21+ 2 = 23. I’ll put stitch counts for the swatch in ( )s at the end of each set of instructions. Turning chains DO NOT count as a stitch.

Ready? Let’s go!

Foundation: Ch 23

R1: dc into the 3rd ch from hook and into each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (21)

R2: sc into the 1st stitch and into each stitch across. Ch 2, turn. (21)

NOTE: This is the first row of our 4-row repeat.

R3 (Alpine A): dc into the 1st stitch, skip the next sc, FPdc around the 2nd dc from two rows below, then dc into the next sc. *Skip the next sc, FPdc around the 2nd next dc from two rows below, then dc into the next sc. Repeat from * across, ending with a dc in the last stitch. Ch 1, turn. (10 FPdc, 11 dc)

NOTE: Starting with the second stitch, the first stitch in our repeating pairs for Alpine A rows is a FPdc.

R4: sc in 1st stitch and in each across. Ch 2, turn. (21)

R5 (Alpine B): dc in 1st two stitches, skip the next sc, FPdc around the 2nd dc from two rows below. *Dc into the next sc, skip 1 sc, FPdc around the next double crochet from two rows below. Repeat from * across until two stitches remain, dc in the last two stitches. (9 FPdc, 12 dc)

NOTE: Starting with the second stitch, the first stitch in our repeating pairs for Alpine B rows is a dc.
NOTE: That’s the final row of our 4-row repeat.

We begin a second repeat of R2-5 with a slight modification to R2, since we are now working into an alpine row.

R6: sc into the 1st stitch and into each stitch across. Ch 2, turn. (21)

R7 (Alpine A): dc into the 1st stitch, skip the next sc, FPdc around the 2nd dc from two rows below, then dc into the next sc. *Skip the next sc, FPdc around the next dc from two rows below, then dc into the next sc. Repeat from * across, ending with a dc in the last stitch. Ch 1, turn. (10 FPdc, 11 dc)

A rule of thumb is that all FPdc are worked around the double crochets of the previous Alpine row and the single crochets hidden behind them are skipped before working a dc into the next stitch.

R8: sc in 1st stitch and in each across. Ch 2, turn. (21)

R9 (Alpine B): dc in 1st two stitches, skip the next sc, FPdc around the 2nd dc from two rows below. *Dc into the next sc, skip 1 sc, FPdc around the next double crochet from two rows below. Repeat from * across until two stitches remain, dc in the last two stitches. (9 FPdc, 12 dc)

Continue repeating as desired.

Alpine Stitch in Rounds

Since we don’t have any edges to center the texture of this pattern into when working in the round, there is no need for the extra stitch. So, when working in the round, we will use an even number of stitches + 2 for the foundation chain. This allows for the continuous repetition of the repeating pairs all the way around.

As when working in rows, Alpine A’s repeating pairs begins with a FPdc Alpine B’s repeating pairs begin with a dc.

For this tutorial swatch, I’m going to use a foundation chain of 28+ 2 = 30. I’ll put stitch counts for the swatch in ( )s at the end of each set of instructions. Chain stitches at the beginning of rounds DO NOT count as a stitch.

Ready? Let’s go!

Foundation: Leave a long tail, then ch 30

R1: Dc into the 3rd ch from hook and into each ch across. Without twisting your work, sl st to the 1st dc of the row to join into a round. (28)

NOTE: Use the long tail to close the gap at the bottom of the first and last stitches of this round.

R2: Ch 1, sc into the 1st stitch and into each stitch around. Sl st to the 1st sc of the round to join. (28)

NOTE: This is the first round of our 4-round repeat.

R3 (Alpine A): Ch 2, skip the first sc, FPdc around the 1st dc from two rounds below, then dc into the next sc. *Skip the next sc, FPdc around the 2nd next dc from two rounds below, then dc into the next sc. Repeat from * around. Sl st to the 1st FPdc of the round to join. (14 FPdc, 14 dc)

NOTE: The first stitch in our repeating pairs for Alpine A rows is a FPdc.

R4: Ch 1, sc in 1st stitch and in each around. Sl st to the 1st sc of the round to join. (28)

R5 (Alpine B): Ch 2, dc in 1st stitch, skip the next sc, FPdc around the 2nd dc from two rounds below. *Dc into the next sc, skip 1 sc, FPdc around the next double crochet from two rounds below. Repeat from * around. Sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join. (14 FPdc, 14 dc)

NOTE: The first stitch in our repeating pairs for Alpine B rounds is a dc.
NOTE: That’s the final round of our 4-round repeat.

We begin a second repeat of R2-5 with a slight modification to R2, since we are now working into an alpine round.

R6: Ch 1, sc into the 1st stitch and into each stitch around. Sl st to the 1st sc of the round to join. (28)

R7 (Alpine A): Ch 2, skip the first sc, FPdc around the 1st dc from two rounds below, then dc into the next sc. *Skip the next sc, FPdc around the next dc from two rounds below, then dc into the next sc. Repeat from * around. Sl st to the 1st FPdc of the round to join. (14 FPdc, 14 dc)

A rule of thumb is that all FPdc are worked around the double crochets of the previous Alpine row and the single crochets hidden behind them are skipped before working a dc into the next stitch.

R8: Ch 1, sc in 1st stitch and in each around. Sl st to the 1st sc of the round to join. (28)

R9 (Alpine B): Ch 2, dc in 1st stitch, skip the next sc, FPdc around the 2nd dc from two rounds below. *Dc into the next sc, skip 1 sc, FPdc around the next double crochet from two rounds below. Repeat from * around. Sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join. (14 FPdc, 14 dc)

Continue repeating as desired, or stop after R8, tie off and cut yarn, then use your swatch as a cup cozy!

Video Tutorial

If you want to see this stitch in action, I’ve recorded a video tutorial for you as well! This tutorial goes over both working in rows and rounds.

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial! If there’s a stitch you’d like to see me make a tutorial for, let me know in the comments below!

Until next time!

Want to stay up to date on all the latest tutorials, patterns, travels, and book reviews? How about exclusive offers and content delivered right to your inbox? Be sure to sign up for my email list and I’ll send you monthly recaps about what has been happening on the blog, as well as information I think you might find interesting! I try not to be spammy and you can unsubscribe at any time. Oh, and did I mention the exclusive content? I want to send you my handy Blanket Sizes sheet as a thank you for signing up! Find more info here, or click the button below to sign up now!