Crochet 102: Blocking 3 Ways + 1 Bonus Method

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Hello, yarn friends!

This last planned installment in my Crochet 102 series has been a long time coming. Life got in the way and then holidays, then more life, and this tutorial has a lot of aspects I wanted to cover, so it took longer than the others as well. But I’ve been working on it for a few months and finally have it ready for you! Yay!

This tutorial is all about BLOCKING. I know, I know, it’s a bit like uttering Voldemort isn’t it? I promise it seems more intimidating than it really is. Yes there is a lot to it given that there are multiple methods used at different times for different types of fibers and projects, but fundamentally they’re all pretty similar. Add moisture, pin to size/shape, let dry, done!

Today, I’m going to take the mystery out of blocking and break it down into a general understanding of the technique – what it is, when you need to do it, what tools are needed – then we’ll talk about the different methods. Let’s get started!

About the Crochet 102 Series

A while ago, I released a series of photo and video tutorials called Crochet 101 for those starting from absolute scratch learning crochet. But as time has gone on, I know that in order to help you become more adept at crochet, we need to go a little farther to better understand how to use our stitch knowledge to make a pattern.

Psst! If you aren’t yet familiar with the basic stitches, check out my Crochet 101 series here.

Once you learn those basic stitches, you’ll want to try your hand at a pattern, and rightly so! To aid you on that journey, I’ve come up with a series of videos aimed to help you go deeper with your crochet knowledge to ensure that you can confidently make any pattern you put your mind to. It’s my goal to help you understand a bit more of the intricacies that make those projects work and how to make them your own. From understanding gauge to changing colors, the videos in this series will help you toward that finished project.

Every tutorial will feature both a photo and a video tutorial, so whether you learn best from photos or watching someone do it in real time, I’ve got you covered. In each of these tutorials, I take a deep dive into common crochet terms associated with them and the mechanics of the techniques involved. Here are the topics I plan to release and I will update with links in each of the posts when new tutorials are live.

Crochet Speak

The below terms will be used throughout this tutorial series. As we proceed with each new Crochet 102 tutorial, I will be adding to this list of terms as needed to understand the tutorial being taught. You will see these terms in the video tutorial, the photos that follow, as well as defined for you below.

From the Gauge and the Golden Loop Tutorial

Tension: how tightly or how loosely you work your stitches
Gauge: the measurement of tension, portrayed as the number of stitches and the number of rows in a given measurement of fabric
Golden Loop: the first loop on your hook after pulling up a loop through a stitch; controls the height of a stitch

From the Yarn Substitutions and WPI Tutorial

Craft Yarn Council (CYC): an independent authority setting standards for yarn crafts; see www.craftyarncouncil.com
Yarn Weight Category: also referred to as yarn weight, this refers to the designation given to a particular yarn by the Craft Yarn Council; see further info on their website here.
Skein Yardage: the length of yarn included in a single skein of yarn, measured in yards (yds) or meters (m)
Skein Weight: how much a single skein of yarn weighs, measured in ounces (oz) or grams (g)
Fiber Content: what material is used to make the yarn, ie merino wool, cotton, acrylic, silk, etc.
Yardage Ratio: measures the proportion of a skein’s length to its weight, calculated by dividing the skein length by skein weight
Wraps per Inch (WPI): How many strands of yarn fit side by side around an opject of uniform thickness in an inch’s worth of wraps

From the Changing Colors Tutorial

In the Round: working in a circular, 3D tube shape so that there are no edges to sew together later; each new tier of stitches is referred to as a round
Joined Rounds: rounds that use a slip stitch to connect, or join, the last stitch of a round to the first for an uninterrupted, level circle of stitches; leaves a seam in the finished product
Continuous Rounds: rounds that work the first stitch of the next round immediately after the last stitch of the previous round without a joining slip stitch, forms a spiral of stitches that jog at the beginning of each new round; leaves no seam in the finished product
Carrying Yarn: the act of nesting a yarn end or the working yarn of a dropped color inside the stitches of the current working row/round

From Today’s Blocking Tutorial

Blocking: the process of adding moisture to your work and gently stretching and manipulating it into the desired size and shape, held by pins until dry
Wet Blocking: adding moisture to your work by soaking it in a basin (Soak method) or misting it with a spray bottle (Spray method)
Steam Blocking: adding moisture to your work by using the steam setting on a steam iron or a steamer
Stiffening: using one of the wet blocking methods with a stiffening solution containing starch, glue, etc. to make your work hold its shape permanently

Blocking

If ‘blocking’ is the Voldemort of the yarn world, should we refer to it as ‘the-technique-that-shall-not-be-named?’ NO of course not, because we aren’t scared of it!

In this tutorial, we’re going to talk about

What blocking is and why it is important
What tools to use and what to do if you don’t have them
The 3 different types of blocking and when to use them + 1 bonus method
Tips for successful blocking

Video Tutorial

Learn better watching and listening in real time? I’ve recorded a video for this tutorial as well! Otherwise, continue on to the written photo tutorial below.

What is blocking and why is it important?

Seeing instructions in a pattern to block your work can seem daunting if you’ve never done it before or aren’t well-practiced in it. You might be tempted to skip this step if you don’t know how to do it, if you’re too eager to wear/use that new project, or if you’re just over working on that project and want to be done. I admit when I first started crocheting, I fell into one of those categories at any given time, but I’ve since come to appreciate this finishing touch as a way to make my work shine. Blocking is a way to take your work to the next level and give it a more polished and professional look. So what is it exactly?

Blocking: The process of adding moisture to your work and gently stretching and manipulating it into the desired size and shape

There are many instances where you will want to block your work, including but not limited to:

Lacework, open stitches, mesh, filet – any time you have any sort of open stitch work in your project
Small motifs that will be joined together (ie granny squares) – creates uniform size and shape to make seaming together much easier
When you need to even out edges – for minor issues resulting in uneven or crooked edges
Garments (before assembly, if possible) –
Gauge swatches – helps test blocking method on the fiber you’re using for your project without risking your hard work and gives more accurate gauge reading for tension adjustments

Let’s look at a side-by-side comparison of something that’s been blocked and something that hasn’t. The two granny squares in the photo below are both made with the same weight of yarn, the same hook size, and the same number of rounds. Notice how the top square’s corners are more rounded than the bottom square’s. You’ll also notice that the bottom square lays flatter, not curling up like the top square and the stitches have opened up nicely as well.

There are a few different methods for blocking. There are three primary methods of blocking: Soak, Spray (both referred to as “wet blocking”) and Steam. There’s another blocking technique that I call the bonus method: Stiffening. The basic method for all of these is the same: add moisture, pin into place, let dry completely. The difference in these methods is how much moisture is added (indicated in the second column of the graphic below) and how it is added (indicated in the third column of the graphic below).

You might hear the phrase “wet blocking,” which almost always refers to either the Soak method or the Spray method. Even though Steam blocking is technically wet as well, it uses so much less water that it doesn’t quite fall into the same caliber as the other two.

Wet Blocking: adding moisture to your work by soaking it in a basin or spraying it with a spray bottle

Steam Blocking: adding moisture to your work using the steam setting on a steam iron or a steamer

Stiffening: using one of the wet blocking methods with a stiffening solution containing starch, glue, etc. to make your work hold its shape permanently

Tools

Before we dive into the different methods, let’s first talk about tools. The items pictured below are the tools I use the most consistently when I need to block something. Granted, some of them are specific to one method or another, but they’re what I consider my most basic tools.

If there’s a single must-have tool for blocking, it’s a set of rust-proof pins. Look for stainless steel like these T pins. You’ll also need a towel (be sure to use an old one in case the yarn dye runs), a spray bottle with a mister function like this one, a steam iron or a steamer like the one above, and a stiffening spray or solution like Aleene’s Stiffen Quik. Tips on DIY stiffening solutions in the Stiffening section below.

One of the most basic tool for blocking is a set of blocking mats. The mats pictured above are those foam floor tiles people use in gyms and playrooms. I got these at Aldi at one point. They also sell thicker foam tiles with gridlines at craft stores like these or these. Or if you’re more into doilies, check these out. If you don’t have mats, you can lay out some cardboard with a towel on top and pin into that. Before I had these, I laid a towel down on my carpeted floor and pinned directly into the carpet pad.

As with anything, there are always fancier tools that make your life a little easier and blocking is no different. Here are some other helpful tools you might like.

You can find these pre-drilled wooden blocking board with rods/pins on Etsy. What I love about them is that the holes are placed at a set measurement (1″ and .5″ on mine), and allow you to block multiple motifs vertically, saving time and space!

Blocking combs are another great addition to your blocking toolbox. They are great for straight edges, allowing you to place multiple pins with one blocker. These Knitter’s Pride Knit Blockers were on my Christmas list for a super long time before I gave up and played Santa for myself. This set used to be the only combs available, but now there are all kind of options like these and these.

There are plenty of other great tools out there, but the last thing I’m going to show you today is wool wash. Wool wash is used with the soaking method, if you’re already soaking your project, you might as well wash it while you’re at it. If you don’t have wool wash, you can use a mild detergent, something that’s safe for an infant would also be suitable here. The benefits of using a wool wash is that they also have conditioning agents to soften your project and is good for the fibers themselves. Eucalan, is the gold standard, but you can also look at Soak and Kookaburra wool washes, or gentle detergents like Molly’s Suds, or Woolite.

Blocking Methods

Now that we’ve talked about what blocking is, why it’s important, and what tools you’ll need, let’s dive into the various methods!

Soak

Soaking uses the most amount of moisture, making it highly malleable and giving you the most control over shaping, so it’s perfect when your project requires a lot of shaping or stretching. It’s best used only on hardy animal fibers (i.e. wool) or synthetic fibers (i.e. acrylic). On the downside, because this method uses the most amount of moisture, it’s also the highest risk for overstretching. Additionally, since this method requires complete saturation of your work and a careful hand, it has the longest process time of all the methods.

Tools: For this method, you’ll need a basin (a bucket, a clean sink, etc), a towel, blocking mats, pins, and wool wash if you’re using it.

How To: Using cold water, fill your basin high enough to be able to submerge your project. Add your wool wash (optional) to the running water. Submerge your project and let it soak for a few minutes, then drain water and rinse if necessary. Press and squeeze out excess water. WARNING: do NOT wring your work – that will stretch it out of shape. Lay your work out flat on a towel, then roll the towel up with your project inside. Press on the rolled towel to absorb any additional excess water from your work. Unroll and place your work on your blocking mats, gently arranging it into the desired shape. Pin to the desired shape/size, taking care to pin opposing corners first then opposing edges as applicable. See my note below about pinning. Allow to dry completely before removing pins. Tip: set a fan on it to speed up the process.

For additional help, see the 07:55 mark of the tutorial video.

Spray

Spraying (or misting) uses a moderate amount of moisture, less than the soak method, but more than the steam method. The moderate amount of moisture allows for a moderate amount stretching/shaping but is not as rough on the fibers as full saturation. That makes this method perfect for those delicate animal fibers (i.e. mohair), plant-based fibers (i.e. cotton, bamboo), or synthetic fibers. The give and take here is that since this method uses less moisture than soaking, it takes less time to dry and has less risk of overstretching, but it’s not as malleable.

Tools: For this method, you’ll need a spray bottle with a mister function, blocking mats, and pins.

How To: Using a spray bottle on the mister setting, lightly spray both sides of your work until you’re able to manipulate it as needed. Lay it flat on your blocking mat and pin into the desired shape/size, taking care to pin opposing corners first then opposing edges as applicable. See my note below about pinning. Allow to dry completely before removing pins.

For additional help, see the 11:45 mark of the tutorial video.

Steam

Steam blocking uses the least amount of moisture of all the methods and works with heat as well to really relax the fibers of your work. As a result, it is the least time consuming but also the least malleable if you have a lot of shaping/stretching to do. Because it uses less moisture, it is the gentlest on fibers, making it suitable for any fiber type. The biggest risk with this method is the potential to damage or melt (synthetics) the fibers of your yarn if your iron/steamer accidentally touches your work. The key is hovering above your work, not touching it.

Tools: For this method, you’ll need a steam iron on the steam setting or a steamer, blocking mats, and pins.

How To: In the previous methods, I usually add moisture then pin into shape, but with this method, I tend to pin first then steam. Lay your work flat on your blocking mat and pin into the desired shape/size, once again taking care to pin in opposing corners first then opposing edges as applicable. See my note below about pinning. Using a steam iron on the steam setting or a steamer, hover your iron/steamer an inch or two above your fabric (do not let it touch it) and apply steam in a circular or back and forth fashion until you’ve covered the entire project. Allow to dry completely before removing pins.

For additional help, see the 14:16 mark of the tutorial video.

Stiffen – Bonus

Last is our bonus method of Stiffening, when you want your work to hold its shape permanently. This uses a starch or glue solution or a fabric stiffening spray in conjunction with a form to make your project hold its shape. Use this method for earrings, ornaments, doilies, bookmarks, tree topper angels, etc. This is used primarily with cotton thread. I’ve never used it on other fibers, so while I’m not saying you can’t, you will need to experiment. Depending on the size of your project, you can soak this in a basin with the solution or use a stiffening spray like I show above.

If you’re looking for a DIY stiffening solution, yarnandy.com compares sugar, starch, and PVA glue (like Elmer’s white glue) with instructions on how to make them. I typically prefer my ready-made stiffening spray, but if I need a larger amount of solution, I like using a PVA glue like Elmer’s in a 1:1 glue to water ratio for a firm hold or a 1:2 glue to water ratio for a moderate hold. Make sure the glue is fully mixed in with the water before submerging your project.

Tools: For this method, you’ll need stiffening solution and a basin if soaking or stiffening spray, blocking mat or form, wax or parchment paper, and pins.

How To: Prepare your blocking mat or form with wax or parchment paper to protect it from the stiffening solution. For larger projects, I recommend using a stiffening solution in a basin and proceeding with the soak method as described above. If you’re blocking a smaller project, a stiffening spray like Aleene’s Stiffen Quik might be a better fit. Spray your work enough to saturate it, getting both sides of your work if possible. Regardless of whether you soak or spray, be sure to work the solution into your project for an even distribution and complete saturation. Lay it flat on your blocking mat or place it onto your blocking form and pin into the desired shape/size, taking care to pin opposing corners first then opposing edges as applicable. See my note below about pinning. Allow to dry completely before removing pins.

For additional help, see the 16:30 mark of the tutorial video.

A Word on Pinning

When pinning my work, I find it best to start with corners then move on to edges. I like pinning opposite corners/edges instead of moving in a circular motion around my work to help get a more even shape. You can see this at the 13:09 mark in the video at the top of this post. I’ve found that it lessens how many adjustments I need to make later.

PRO TIP: Pin corners first, then edges. Start with one corner/edge then work the opposite corner/edge next, continuing around your project.

Pin in even increments along edges and always pin through gaps in the fabric, NOT through the fibers of the yarn. Go back and fill in any gaps where you notice pulling and make any necessary adjustments.

PRO TIP: Don’t pin through the fibers if you can avoid it. This damages the fibers.

A Few Additional Tips

In addition to the tips on pinning above, there are a few other rules of thumb to keep in mind when blocking.

The wetter the fabric, the higher the risk of overstretching. So use a gentle hand.
NEVER wring excess water out of your work. It will distort the shape. Instead, gently squeeze out excess water or roll into a towel to absorb it.
NEVER let your iron/steamer touch your work. Remember the key here is to hover.

That’s it for blocking!

I hope this tutorial helped demystify this technique for you! It really does add such a professional touch to your work and helps even out imperfections. Keep practicing it and experimenting with different methods on different fibers to find what you prefer and works best for you.

Until next time!

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