Edith Coaster + Washcloth

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Hey friends!

I’m so excited to finally share this quick, stash-busting pattern with you!

The Edith Coaster + Washcloth pattern uses my Lady Edith Stitch Pattern, which you might be familiar with if you have made my Edith Ear Warmer or made the Serenity Throw that I collaborated on. If not, then you’re in for a treat because all this texture is super easy, uses only basic stitches and has a repeat that’s easy to remember.

Special Stitches

While there aren’t any special stitches per se, we are going to be working into the third loop of half double crochets. But don’t worry if you’re not familiar with this, I’ve got you covered with photo and video support below.

Yarn + Materials

This pattern uses a CYC 4 worsted weight yarn, which can be a broad category of weights. The following yarn recommendations should be fairly interchangeable. All have been used in the testing of this pattern to ensure they’re a good fit for it. Still, you will want to make sure you check your gauge to ensure proper size and yardage requirement.

• I Love This Cotton
• Lily’s Sugar ‘n Cream
• Dishie
• Drops Paris
• Rico Creative Cotton
• Shine Worsted
• Bernat Handicrafter Cotton
• Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton

It’s the Great Stashdown, Charlie Brown!

I’m so excited for this pattern to be a part of the Great Stashdown Blog Hop hosted by RaeLynn of Itchin’ for Some Stitchin!

Okay then, on to the pattern!

Edith Coaster + Washcloth Crochet Pattern

by Hooks, Books, & Wanderlust

This pattern is written for two sizes, coaster and washcloth. If you would like to alter the size of these, instructions are given within the pattern to do so. Please note that instructions and stitch counts will be given for these different sizes in the following format: coaster (washcloth).

This pattern is also available in a printable PDF format with a stitch chart and row tracker.

Materials

• CYC 4 worsted weight cotton yarn (suggestions given above)
  • Coaster: 35 yds (32 m)
  • Washcloth: 93 yds (85 m)
  • Final round of border (included in totals above, but in case you’d like a different color)
    • Coaster: 6 yds (5.5 m)
    • Washcloth: 12 yds ( 9m)
• 5mm/H hook
• Tapestry needle
• Scissors

Stitches & Abbreviations (US Terms)

• Stitch(es) (st(s))
• Chain (ch)
• Chain Space (ch sp)
• Slip Stitch (sl st)
• Skip (sk)
• Single Crochet (sc)
• Half Double Crochet (hdc)
• Third Loop Only (TLO)
• * * Repeat sequence of stitches within asterisks as directed
• [ ] Work stitches within brackets into the same indicated location

Finished Measurements

• Coaster: 5.5 in (14 cm) square
• Washcloth: 9.25 in (23.5 cm) square

Gauge

Psst! Trouble meeting gauge? Check out my blog post on gauge. Learn how to make adjustments to both width and height in my photo/video tutorial.

4″ (10 cm) square = 14 sts x 10 rows of pattern repeat (R2-3)

Pattern for Gauge:
Follow pattern for coaster size to make a swatch. Before beginning the border, your work should measure 4.5 in (11.5 cm) square.

Notes

• This pattern is written in US Standard terms and is classified as Advanced Beginner.
• Stitch Multiple: 2+1 (+1 for the foundation chain)
• Pattern Repeat: 2 rows (R2-3)
• Size/Tension Adjustments:
  • Adjust the width: increase/decrease the given starting chain by 2 until desired width is met. You should have an even number of foundation chains to make sure your first row is an odd number.
    • Note that foundation stitches tend to be tighter than regular stitches and working additional rows may grow your width slightly.
  • Adjust the height: add/subtract rows.
• PRO TIP: I recommend reading through the pattern or watching the pattern video before starting to familiarize yourself with the pattern and stitches. Annoying? Yes. Worth it? Definitely.
• PRO TIP: Count your stitches often!
• PRO TIP: Size matters! Make it to correct size and don’t run out of yarn. Make that gauge swatch and compare to the pattern gauge above
  • Trouble meeting gauge? Check out my blog post on gauge.
• Get the PDF: If you’d prefer a convenient, printable PDF version of this pattern, which includes all written instructions, tips and tricks, and photos with the linked video pattern, as well as a helpful row tracker and a stitch chart for visual reference – available in the paid pattern only, visit my Etsy and Ravelry shops!

Written Pattern

This pattern is worked in two parts, the body and the border. The body is worked in turned rows and the border in joined rounds. Chain stitches at beginning of rows/rounds do not count as a stitch. Instructions for different sizes are given in the format: coaster (washcloth). Stitch counts remain the same for all rows: 15 (29).

Part 1: Body

Ch 16 (30).

R1: Hdc into the second chain from hook and in each chain across. Ch 1, turn.

R2: Hdc in the first stitch, *hdcTLO, hdc* across. Ch 1, turn.

PRO TIP: When you see a series of stitches between asterisks (*) as above, that means you are to repeat those stitches in succession for the indicated number of times. In this instance, you’ll alternate a hdcTLO and a hdc every two stitches across your row.

R3: Hdc 2, *hdcTLO, hdc* across until 1 stitch remains, hdc in last stitch. Ch 1, turn.

PRO TIP: When you see a number follow a stitch, as “hdc 2” above, this means you’ll work that type of stitch in each of the next specified number of stitches, in this case a hdc in each of the first two stitches.  Do NOT work 2 hdcs into the same stitch.

R4 – 10 (18): Continue alternating repeats of R2-3. Ch 1, turn.

NOTE: your final repeat should be a repeat of R2.

R11 (19): Hdc in each stitch across. Proceed to the border. Do not tie off.

PRO TIP: I say not to tie off yet because even if you intend to change colors for your border, I recommend working the first round of the border in the same color as the body for a more professional look that blends beautifully.

Part 2: Border

The side of your work that faced you as you finished the last row will be the same side facing you as you work the border. The border will be worked in joined rounds with the same side always facing you.  We will work the first round evenly along the left-side edge first (R1S1), then the bottom (R1S2), followed by the right-side edge (R1S3), and finally across the top (R1S4), rotating 90 degrees clockwise at each corner – see photo below.

NOTE: in the round abbreviations, R indicates which round of the border you’re working and S indicates the side of your work within that round – really only pertinent for the first round.

For additional visual support, see the border segment of the pattern video here.

R1S1: Ch 1, rotate your work 90 degrees clockwise to begin working the border along the left side edge. Work sc sts evenly along the sides of your rows, working ~3 sc sts for every two rows, completing an odd number of sts.  When you reach the corner, ch 1 and continue to the next side.

R1S2: Sc in each stitch across the bottom edge of your foundation chain.  When you reach the corner, ch 1 and continue to the next side.

R1S3: Work sc evenly along the sides of your rows working ~3 sc sts for every two rows, completing an odd number of sts.  When you reach the corner, ch 1 and continue to the next side.

R1S4: Sc in each stitch across the top edge of the body.  When you reach the corner, ch 1 and sl st to the first sc from R1S1 to join.

Option A: Finishing with the Same Color

If you wish to continue without changing colors, do NOT ch 1 to start the next round. Skip the first stitch, the one you slip stitched into to join the previous round and start R2 in the next stitch. For additional visual support, see this segment of the pattern video here.

R2: *[sc, ch1, sc], sk 1* across to corner, [sc, ch2, sc] in ch-1 sp, *[sc, ch1, sc], sk 1* across to corner, [sc, ch2, sc] in ch-1 sp, *[sc, ch1, sc], sk 1* across to corner, [sc, ch2, sc] in ch-1 sp, *[sc, ch1, sc], sk 1* across to corner, [sc, ch2, sc] in ch-1 sp, sl st to first sc to join. Tie off, weave in ends.

PRO TIP: stitches given in [ ]s are to all be worked into the same stitch. In this case, a sc, ch2, and sc all get worked into the chain space.

Option B: Finishing with a Contrasting Color

If you want to use a contrasting color for the edging, tie off your main color and start R2 with your new color in the chain space of one of the corners. I like to use a different corner than the one I tied off the last round near. This round uses approximately 6 (12) yards. For additional visual support, see this segment of the pattern video here.

R2: [sc, ch2, sc] in ch-1 sp, *sk 1, [sc, ch1, sc]* across to corner, [sc, ch2, sc] in ch-1 sp, *sk 1, [sc, ch1, sc]* across to corner, [sc, ch2, sc] in ch-1 sp, *sk 1, [sc, ch1, sc]* across to corner, [sc, ch2, sc] in ch-1 sp, *sk 1, [sc, ch1, sc]* across to corner, sl st to first sc to join. Tie off, weave in ends.

PRO TIP: stitches given in [ ]s are to all be worked into the same stitch. In this case, a sc, ch2, and sc all get worked into the chain space.

If you want to really set off that edging, block your work! Place a pin in each ch-sp to show off those points! Need help blocking? Check out my full written photo and video blocking tutorial here!

You did it!

Isn’t that texture so fun! And it’s so easy! It reminds me of a mini-waffle stitch but less fiddly.

I would LOVE to see your make!  Should you choose to share, use the tag #EdithCWC or #LaBelleVieForMe to share your work with me @HooksBooksWanderlust on Instagram and / or Facebook!

I hope you enjoyed this pattern and found it easy to follow! If not, or if you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask! Email me at kristen.caldwell@hooksbookswanderlust.com.

Happy crocheting!

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