Crochet,  Crochet Patterns

Elara Baby Blanket

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Hello there, fiber friend!

If there’s one thing I love making more than any other project, it’s a baby blanket. Maybe it’s because I’m already envisioning adorably squishy babies enveloped in the coziness and love of these handmade items, or maybe I just love a meditative make that is less time-consuming than a full blanket but not over as quickly as smaller projects like hats, scarves, etc.

We’ve gotten to the point too that when my husband finds out his co-workers are expecting and someone starts talking baby shower gifts, he immediately chimes in with, “We’ll bring the blanket!” He knows me well, does HBW Hubby. That’s how the Elara baby blanket came to be. It was the perfect excuse to go yarn shopping, as if one needs an excuse. 😉

About the Elara Baby Blanket

For this blanket, I wanted something classic and timeless, but not boring. I had just finished designing and launching the Harbor Beanie and I was (and still am) so obsessed with the trinity stitch and double crochet clusters. So I pulled some inspo from that beanie and came up with the idea for the Elara. To finish it off, I wanted something pretty that would set this off as a timeless piece, so I went with a classic shell border. I love how it all came together!

Note: This free version of this pattern and the linked video contain ads that earn money for my blog and channel which help me to keep this site up and running. If you’d like an ad-free viewing experience, you can find that supported in my Premium PDF for this pattern.

Why You Should Consider the Premium PDF

What makes my Premium PDFs worth it? Let me tell you!

It’s my goal that anyone, regardless of skill level or pattern-reading ability, is able to pick up one of my patterns and make something they can be proud of. If you understand the basics, I can help you build on them. If you are still working on the basics, definitely check out my Crochet 101 series to get you started!

My interactive PDFs are formatted for readability and ease of navigation, allowing you to jump between sections of the pattern with ease! They are written with teaching in mind, complete with

  • Photo tutorials for all special stitches (including video support) right in the PDF
  • PRO Tips throughout sharing tips and tricks for the novice pattern reader
  • Additional photos as compared to the free online version
  • A stitch chart for those visual learners out there
  • Row/round trackers (with the exception of smaller patterns with only a few rows/rounds)
  • An Ad-Free pattern video only available with Premium PDF version as compared to the YouTube video below with ads

Not a beginner? Each Premium PDF also has a consolidated version (with the exception of smaller patterns with only a few rows/rounds) that’s printer-friendly just for you! Print only what you need!

Get your printable PDF version of this pattern below!

Special Stitches

There are several special stitches used in this pattern that give it its character. The following stitches are linked to photo + video tutorials to help you better understand the stitch. If you need additional help seeing it worked in-pattern, separate links will be provided in those row instructions to take you to the relevant place in the pattern’s supplemental video.

Yarn Suggestions

This pattern uses a CYC 4 worsted weight yarn, which can be a broad category of weights. The following yarn recommendations should be fairly interchangeable. All have been used in the testing of this pattern to ensure they’re a good fit for it. Still, you will want to make sure you check your gauge to ensure proper size and yardage requirement.

Materials + Tools

  • 1500 yards (1372 m) of CYC 4 worsted weight yarn, yarn suggestions above
    • 1400 yds (1281 m) of Main Color
    • 100 yds (91 m) Contrasting Color for border
  • 5mm / H crochet hook
  • Scissors
  • Yarn needle
  • Stitch marker (optional)

Stitches + Abbreviations

  • Right Side (RS)
  • Wrong Side (WS)
  • Stitch(es) (sts(s))
  • Chain (ch)
  • Chain Space (ch sp)
  • Skip (sk)
  • Slip Stitch (sl st)
  • Foundation Single Crochet (Fsc) – tutorial here
  • Single Crochet (sc)
  • Half Double Crochet (hdc)
  • Double Crochet (dc)
  • Back Loop Only (BLO)
  • Third Loop Only (TLO)
  • Trinity Stitch (trinity) – tutorial here
  • Double Crochet Cluster (2dcCl, 3dcCl) – tutorial here
  • Shell – 5 double crochets into same stitch
  • [ ] – work all stitches within into the same stitch

Finished Size

Approximately 37.5” W x 41.5” L (95.25 cm W x 105 cm L)

Gauge

4″ (10.2 cm) = 14 sc x 12 rows (R2-13)
Pattern for Gauge: Fsc 25, follow pattern R2-19, R 116

PRO TIP: Gauge matters! This is how you make sure that the blanket turns out the right size and that you have enough yarn to get there. If you need help with gauge, see my tutorial here.

Notes

  • This pattern is written in US Terms and set for Intermediate skill level.
  • Before You Begin:
    • Read the pattern or watch the video before beginning to familiarize yourself with the pattern
    • Swatch! Size matters and making a gauge swatch is a must. It helps you practice the stitches, tests if the yarn is a good fit, and ensures your blanket is the right size
    • Measure as you go! It’s helpful to measure your work periodically to ensure your gauge stays consistent
  • Size/Tension Adjustments: To change width, work R1 in a multiple of 6+1. To change the length, add/subtract full pattern repeats and ensure the first round of the border is a multiple of 6+1 on each side of the blanket.
    • If you need help meeting gauge, see my gauge tutorial here!
  • Supplemental Video: I’ve created a detailed tutorial for this pattern on my YouTube channel, which you can find below or by clicking here. Note, this video contains ads. For an ad-free experience, consider purchasing the Premium PDF of this pattern.
  • Premium PDF: You can find a premium PDF of this pattern in my Etsy and Ravelry shops, which includes:
    • additional supplemental photos
    • ad-free video support
    • stitch chart
    • row tracker
    • See above for more details.

Video Pattern

Not much of a written pattern person? Prefer a video? I’ve created a supplemental video detailing every step of this pattern! Otherwise, the written pattern can be found down below. Reminder, an ad-free video experience is available as part of my Premium PDF pattern, linked above.

Written Pattern

The body of this blanket will be worked in turned rows and the border in two joined rounds. There will be a distinct right side (RS) and wrong side (WS) to it. The right side will be facing you when you work even-numbered rows and the border rounds. Stitch counts are given at the end of row/round instructions in ( )s.

NOTES:

  • The first and last stitches of BLO and TLO rows are worked under both top loops to make working the border easier later.
  • You will notice some slanting in your work due to the stitches used. It’s normal and can be blocked out. See my Blocking Tutorial
  • Chain stitches at beginning of Rows/Rounds do not count as a stitch unless otherwise noted (R8).
  • If you wish to change the width of your blanket, you will need to work a multiple of 6+1 foundation single crochets in R1.

Part 1: Body

R1 (WS): Fsc 127, ch 1 turn.  (127)

NOTE: To see a tutorial for the Fsc, click here, or click here for the relevant part of the pattern video. Alternatively, if you wish to use the traditional chain method, ch 128, sc into the 2nd ch from hook and each across.

R2 (RS): Hdc, hdc BLO across until 1 stitch remains, hdc, ch 1, turn.  (127)

R3 (WS): Sc, sc TLO across until 1 stitch remains, sc, ch 1, turn. (127)

Begin pattern repeat

PRO TIP: The words “pattern repeat” refer to the block of rows that are repeated a specified number of times to complete a specific section of a pattern. It’s the pattern within the pattern, so to speak. In this pattern, R4-11 make up the first pattern repeat. It’s still referred to as a pattern repeat even though we haven’t repeated anything yet.

R4 (RS): Sc, *trinity, ch 1; repeat from * across until 2 sts remain, trinity, sc in last st, ch 1, turn. (63 trinity, 2 sc)

NOTES:

  • To see a tutorial for the trinity stitch, click here, or click here for the relevant part of the pattern video.
  • There is no ch-1 after the final trinity stitch of the row. The sc takes its place.

R5 (WS): Sc in each st and ch-1 sp across, ch 1, turn. (127)

PRO TIP: Stop and count your stitches! This is a common place to get off-count.

R6 (RS): Hdc, hdc BLO across until 1 stitch remains, hdc, ch 1, turn.  (127)

R7 (WS): Sc, sc TLO across until 1 stitch remains, sc, ch 2, turn. (127)

R8 (RS): Dc (with the starting ch-2, this counts as a 2dcCl), ch 1, sk 1, *3dcCl, ch 1, sk 1, repeat from * across until 1 st remains, 2dcCl in last, ch 1, turn. (62 3dcCl, 2 2dcCl)

NOTE: To see a tutorial for the double crochet cluster stitch, click here, or click here for the relevant part of the pattern video. As mentioned in the 3dcCl tutorial, the 2dcCl is worked the same way as the 3dcCl with one less partial double crochet worked before the final pull-through.

R9 (WS): Sc in each st and ch-1 sp across, ch 1, turn. (127)

PRO TIP: Stop and count your stitches! This is a common place to get off-count.

R10 (RS): Hdc, hdc BLO across until 1 stitch remains, hdc, ch 1, turn.  (127)

R11 (WS): Sc, sc TLO across until 1 stitch remains, sc, ch 1, turn. (127)

That’s the first pattern repeat done!

PRO TIP: You need a TOTAL of 14 pattern repeats, of which you’ve already worked 1, so you have 13 more to go!

R12-115: Repeat R4-11 13 more times.

R116 (RS): Sc in each st across. (127)

Do not tie off. Continue to Border.

NOTE: If you have opted to work your border in a contrasting color, I recommend working your first round in the same color used for the body for a more polished look, so don’t tie off even if changing colors.

Part 2: Border

The border will be worked with the right side of the blanket facing you. We will work the first round evenly along the left-side edge first (R1S1), then the bottom edge (R1S2), followed by the right-side edge (R1S3), and finally across the top (R1S4), rotating 90 degrees clockwise at each corner – see schematic below.

If you need a little extra visual help with this section, click here for the relevant part of the pattern video.

R1S1: Ch 1, rotate your work 90 degrees clockwise to begin working the border along the left-side edge. Work sc evenly along the sides of your rows in a multiple of 6+1. I recommend working 2 sc per cluster row and 1 sc for all others, though you will need to add 3 stitches somewhere to ensure the correct stitch multiple. I recommend making those up in 3 half double crochet rows toward the beginning, middle and end of the side.  (133 this side)

NOTE: The Ch 1 that starts this round is only to achieve the starting height of the round, just like a turning chain. It is NOT part of the corner spacing—that will come at the end of the round.

PRO TIP: You may find it helpful to use a stitch marker as you work sc into the sides of each pattern repeat for R1S1 and R1S3. That will help ensure you have the correct number of sts per repeat (9) so you end up with stitches worked evenly and end with the correct number of stitches.

Image shows the recommended number of stitches worked into the sides of each row in Round 1, Side 1 of the border.

R1S2: Ch 2, rotate your work 90 degrees clockwise to begin working the border along the bottom edge. Sc in each st across until you reach the corner.  (127 this side)

Image shows the completion of  Round 1 Side 1, the turned corner using a chain-2, and stitches worked into the bottom edge of Foundation Single Crochets from Row 1.

R1S3: Ch 2, rotate your work 90 degrees clockwise to begin working the border along the right-side edge. Work sc evenly along the sides of your rows in a multiple of 6+1. As in R1S1, I recommend working 2 sc per cluster row and 1 sc for all others, though you will need to add 3 stitches somewhere to ensure the correct stitch multiple. I recommend making those up in 3 half double crochet rows toward the beginning, middle and end of the side.  (133 this side)

R1S4: Ch 2, rotate your work 90 degrees clockwise to begin working the border along the top edge. Sc in each st across until you reach the corner, ch 2 to complete the last corner chain space, rotate your work 90 degrees clockwise, sl st to the top of the first sc of the round to join.  (127 for this side, 520 total for R1)

If working a contrasting color for shell edging, tie off main color and attach contrasting color to the first sc of R1S1.

Image shows the completion of round 1 of the border with the main color tied off.

R2: Ch 1, sc, *sk 2, shell, sk 2, sc, repeat from * to corner, shell in ch-2 sp, sc, *sk 2, shell, sk 2, sc, repeat from * to corner, shell in ch-2 sp, sc, *sk 2, shell, sk 2, sc, repeat from * to corner, shell in ch-2 sp, sc, *sk 2, shell, sk 2, sc, repeat from * to corner, shell in ch-2 sp, sl st to the top of the first sc of the round to join. (90 shells, 90 sc)

Image shows the completion of round 2 of the border in a contrasting color, tied off and blanket complete.

Tie off, weave in ends!

FINAL NOTE: As mentioned in my note at the beginning of the pattern, you may notice a slant to your work. I highly recommend blocking your work, especially if it is a gift. Find my tutorial on the various ways to block your projects here.

Yay, you’re all done and this blanket is ready for baby snuggles! I just know that baby-to-be will feel the love that went into every stitch!

I would LOVE to see your blankets! Be sure to use the tag #ElaraBabyBlanket and / or #LaBelleVieForMe to share with me @HooksBooksWanderlust on Instagram and / or Facebook!

I hope you enjoyed this pattern! If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask! Comment below or email me at HooksBooksAndWanderlust@gmail.com.

Until next time!

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